Hi all, I hate to pick nits, but I wanted to clarify something. IMO, brake "fade" refers specifically to overheated brakes - usually exceeding the temperature rating of the pad compound, resulting in a lack of friction, and therefore stopping power. This can also include rotors that are too small to dissipate the heat generated - that's why high-performance cars have huge brake rotors. This excess heat can cause the brake fluid to boil, and when that happens, you get a spongy pedal, etc and the fluid should be replaced pronto (it doesn't go back to normal when it cools). So while brake fade can cause the fluid to boil, the fluid doesn't fail and *cause* brake fade - but the symptoms could be easily confused. Definitely check the hoses, pads, rotors, and replace the fluid if over 2 years old.
Normally all of this is related to REPEATED hard brake use - think racetrack or autocross, where every 10-30 seconds you're standing on the brakes from fairly high speeds. The best brake fluid in the world won't do any good if the brakes are too small, or you have a street pad compound that fades at low temps. What was originally described *could* have been fade, but sure shouldn't be after one hard stop from 40-0!! It could have glazed the pads/rotors or something perhaps. But it definitely would not affect the brake fluid unless the reservoir was accidentally filled with Zerex G-05 or something, lol. About pads... most OE/OEM pads are designed for light pedal effort and low noise. Pads that claim to be low-dust may require more pedal effort and/or be noisier. Race pads that can withstand really high temps (much more fade resistant) are usually high-effort, noisy, and dirty - or REALLY expensive! I have Porterfield R4-S carbon-Kevlar pads, which have great feel, are quiet, last a long time, and are fairly low dust.... but most people would choke at the cost (at least double what most OEM pads cost). I'm a big fan of the R4-S pads, btw... they're available for most Mercedes. So far most people who have tried them love them. Cheapest to buy direct from the mfr... <www.porterfield-brakes.com>. Fluid: I did a ton of research on this in the past, to find what fluids have the highest boil points. The summary is, the best stuff at the best price that's available everywhere is Valvoline SynPower brake fluid, about $6/quart at any FLAPS. The next step up for the picky folks is ATE Super Blue or ATE Type200 Gold (same stuff, different color dye), but it costs twice as much ($10-$12 per quart). Beyond that, Motul 600 has even higher boil points, but the cost doubles again - $20-$25 per quart. Those are the three top street fluids, IMNSHO. There are more exotic fluids out there, but in general they need frequent replacement (think weeks or months, not years) and the cost gets just stupid. Those are strictly for racetrack use, if the ATE or Motul fluids are boiling (!!!) and the pads/rotors are still within their rated temp range. Sorry for the long rant... now back to your daily moose and Mobil-1. :-) Dave M. Boise, ID (Valvoline or ATE brake fluids in all my vehicles) > ------------------------------ > Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2006 21:40:08 -0800 > From: "Tim C" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: Re: [MBZ] Tropming on the Brakes > > > Chiming in - if brake fade is the issue, try ATE Super Blue. > > T > > > Yep, Brake fade. > > > > When I did tech inspections at Gemutlichkeit we could tell > > who had DOT 3 or > > old fluid, and who didn't. The solution is to flush and change the > > fluid. Fresh brake fluid (from the approved list) has a > > higher boiling > > point, and won't fade as easily. YOU WANT brakes that don't > > fade. 20 > > years ago Castrol GT Brake fluid was the way to go, but it > > has fallen from > > favor and availability. I am sure others will chime in on what is > > currently available and meets the spec. > > > > Loren
