The one that is already in the shop is a 50 amp I believe as has 2 flat prongs 
on top and the ground at the bottom, triangle shaped. That is where I currently 
plugged in my compressor. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 21, 2015, at 2:31 PM, Rich Thomas via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> That 50A 220V outlet is probably the 3-prong triangle sort of arrangement?  
> Like a dryer plug?  Or two spades then another one vertical to them in the 
> middle?  I can't remember all the various types for the different loads.  You 
> can come off there and put in another similar outlet, you have to use #8 (? I 
> think that's right) wire for the amperage.  You DO NOT want to run other 
> outlets off that plug that are not rated the same amperage (I won't tell you 
> what I do to run my jointer and compressor in the garage...).
> 
> If you have other 220V circuits you'll have some double-space breakers in 
> there that use both legs of the power coming in, and they will have 2 wires 
> attached to them, a black and (usually) a red, and a double bar to open/close 
> the circuit.  You can use the white wire instead of a red, but you need to 
> mark it red at each end with a marker pen or red tape, and there is no white 
> neutral needed as the 220V is between the two hots, not like on a 110V 
> between a (black) hot and (white) neutral.  Running say a 20A 220V circuit 
> you can use 12-2 romex (2 conductors black and white and the bare ground) and 
> just mark the white as red.  Or same deal with a 30A, use 10-2 romex.  If you 
> have a direct run from the breaker box to some outlet box, and if it only has 
> the black and white conductors, you can use that for 220V by using the black 
> for one leg and taking the white off the neutral bar and painting it red then 
> hooking it to the 220 breaker.  Ground stays the same.  Make sure there are 
> no in
 termediate receptacles that aren't also upgraded.
> 
> If you have conduit running around, you have to use the single conductors 
> (THHN?) that are rated for conduit of the proper amperage.  Sometimes that is 
> easier and in a shop protects the wiring a lot better and looks cleaner.  The 
> 20A 220V receptacles will have one vertical and one horizontal and you will 
> need that kind of plug.  20A receptacles have a combination of a 
> vertical/horizontal so you can use them for 110V or 220V, but to me that can 
> cause issues if someone plugs in a 110V appliance into a 220V-wired outlet.  
> I have used those in all my new wiring but it is all 20A 110V.
> 
> I would suggest you go to Lowes or HD and buy a test probe, they are like 
> $10-15 and will beep when you get the business end near a hot receptacle or 
> wire.  Lots better than the little light things with the 2 wires, you won't 
> fry your ass.  I think they work on 12V too, so good for the cars.  You can 
> trace circuits pretty easily with one.
> That 50A 220V outlet is probably the 3-prong triangle sort of arrangement?  
> Like a dryer plug?  Or two spades then another one vertical to them in the 
> middle?  I can't remember all the various types for the different loads.  You 
> can come off there and put in another similar outlet, you have to use #8 (? I 
> think that's right) wire for the amperage.  You DO NOT want to run other 
> outlets off that plug that are not rated the same amperage (I won't tell you 
> what I do to run my jointer and compressor in the garage...).
> 
> If you have other 220V circuits you'll have some double-space breakers in 
> there that use both legs of the power coming in, and they will have 2 wires 
> attached to them, a black and (usually) a red, and a double bar to open/close 
> the circuit.  You can use the white wire instead of a red, but you need to 
> mark it red at each end with a marker pen or red tape, and there is no white 
> neutral needed as the 220V is between the two hots, not like on a 110V 
> between a (black) hot and (white) neutral.  Running say a 20A 220V circuit 
> you can use 12-2 romex (2 conductors black and white and the bare ground) and 
> just mark the white as red.  Or same deal with a 30A, use 10-2 romex.  If you 
> have a direct run from the breaker box to some outlet box, and if it only has 
> the black and white conductors, you can use that for 220V by using the black 
> for one leg and taking the white off the neutral bar and painting it red then 
> hooking it to the 220 breaker.  Ground stays the same.  Make sure there are 
> no in
 termediate receptacles that aren't also upgraded.
> 
> If you have conduit running around, you have to use the single conductors 
> (THHN?) that are rated for conduit of the proper amperage.  Sometimes that is 
> easier and in a shop protects the wiring a lot better and looks cleaner.  The 
> 20A 220V receptacles will have one vertical and one horizontal and you will 
> need that kind of plug.  20A receptacles have a combination of a 
> vertical/horizontal so you can use them for 110V or 220V, but to me that can 
> cause issues if someone plugs in a 110V appliance into a 220V-wired outlet.  
> I have used those in all my new wiring but it is all 20A 110V.
> 
> I would suggest you go to Lowes or HD and buy a test probe, they are like 
> $10-15 and will beep when you get the business end near a hot receptacle or 
> wire.  Lots better than the little light things with the 2 wires, you won't 
> fry your ass.  I think they work on 12V too, so good for the cars.  You can 
> trace circuits pretty easily with one.
> 
> --R
> 
>> On 11/21/15 2:34 PM, Curly McLain via Mercedes wrote:
>> When ya gonna be home next week?  (turkey day week) It might work...
>> 
>> You can move the switches, or change to 3 way and run a wire from the 
>> current to the additional switches.  If the picture I can't see has wires 
>> connected to the double breaker, then it is a 220 circuit. 120V should have 
>> a black, a white and a green.  Most residential 220/240 has the same.  the 
>> white is used in  place of the red.  Good color coding would be black, red, 
>> green for a 220/240v single phase, and it may have a white also to keep the 
>> common.
>> 
>> You can put more than one outlet on a breaker, but for 240 V major users, 
>> the best practices is to have one outlet per breaker.  Same for dishwasher, 
>> air cond, etc.
>> 
>> If you need more spaces, you can get piggyback breakers or half width 
>> breakers to get more 120V circuits in the same box, freeing up spaces for 
>> 240V doubles.
>> 
>> Your old place would not have been too much out of the way.  If I remember 
>> right, you are close to Ponca City now.  SE of Ponca? I'd have to figure out 
>> the route to get there.
>> 
>> 
>>> Get in the car and drive down, you can haul a load of parts back with you. 
>>> My shop is kind of retarded. So the walk in door is at 1 end, the breaker 
>>> box is at the other and this is where they also located the light switches, 
>>> right next to the breaker box. The 220 or 240 outlet whatever you call, 
>>> which is 50 amp btw is also right next to the breaker box. This is a good 
>>> spot to say plug in a welder or something but the huge air compressor is 
>>> right in the way there. I want to locate it in a corner on the other side 
>>> of the shop but need an outlet there. The empty box with what appears to be 
>>> about 10-12 gauge wires is close to the walk in door, but not really in the 
>>> corner where I want to put the compressor. That other empty box with the 
>>> lighter gauge wires is in the perfect spot but I think it's 110 type wires. 
>>> I also really need to have a light switch put in by the door, I guess in 
>>> addition to or relocate the ones by the breaker box. In the box there is at 
>>> least 1 maybe 2 empty spot
 s for breakers. Does each outlet have to have its own breaker or can 2 use the 
same breaker?
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>> On Nov 21, 2015, at 12:45 PM, Curly McLain via Mercedes 
>>> <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>>>> I have 1 220 outlet in my shop but it's not really in a good location. I 
>>>>> need a couple more installed for future lifts and air compressor. I have 
>>>>> a couple of blank boxes in the shop with no outlets in them. One has 
>>>>> heavy wires and is in a better location but still need one or 2 more. 
>>>>> Does this appear to be wired for 220 and all I need to do is install the 
>>>>> outlet? How do I wire in additional outlets? Maybe I would be better 
>>>>> having an pro do it.
>>> >>
>>> >> Sent from my iPhone
>>> >
>>> > Pay my way there and I'll do it for ya.   Trade ya labor fer paatz
>>> >
>> 
>> _______________________________________
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> 
> 
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> 
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