No, angled downslope as it is now, so the water doesn't hafta change direction immediately after entering the drain - keep the flow going downslope like it is now.

Wilton

----- Original Message ----- From: "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Cc: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <ka...@striplin.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 06, 2016 4:31 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Yet even more dishwasher talk


That t has a little angle to it, so you are saying it needs to be opposite of how it is now, it currently angles up but I should move it and have it angle down?

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 6, 2016, at 3:23 PM, WILTON via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

My thought, too. Swap the dishwasher drain "T" with the horizontal pipe immediately above the trap; make sure the DW drain connection is on topside of pipe and "headed/angled" down slope (toward the trap).

Wilton

----- Original Message ----- From: "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Cc: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <ka...@striplin.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 06, 2016 4:10 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Yet even more dishwasher talk


If you look at the photo I sent earlier, it looks like I could just swap the section where the dishwasher drain goes into to the section right above the trap, just swap those 2 sections of pipe. This would lower the level of the trap a bit. Not sure that it would matter though.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 6, 2016, at 2:48 PM, WILTON via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

The up loop to possible highest water level in the sink prevents water from sink draining back into the washer in case of a defective (leaking) valve in the dishwasher.

Anti-siphon vent is any type of air gap in the drain line; most of the time (an exception could be having a sink and its drain filled with water - blocked drain and sink full of water), an effective gap is where the dishwasher drain is connected to the drain above the trap. Some jurisdictions require an additional, physical break (gap) in the dishwasher drain hose ABOVE the possible highest water level in the kitchen sink (water can not siphon (nor run/drain) from the sink back past the air gap). (See illustrations in Goggle's "images for plumbing dishwasher."

If you don't have either the gap or the up loop, you've been lucky. I hope you continue to be so.

Wilton

----- Original Message ----- From: "rogerhga--- via Mercedes" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Cc: <roger...@comcast.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 06, 2016 3:13 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Yet even more dishwasher talk


Rich, don't know what the anti siphon vent is. Everything works ok on mine so apparently I don't need it. Wilton, it seems the up loop would serve the same purpose as the trap. Again, since my unit works fine, I apparently don't need it. As I've said before, I may have just been lucky. Or it could be that my whole house water filter helps remove chemicals, etc. I know my commode bowls stay pretty clean and my water heaters (have two) are past normal expiration times and are still working fine. Just sayin...... Kaleb, let us know how your quest goes. This certainly is a perplexing issue with lots of "possible" causes and solutions.
Roger
Roger Hale
Dinnerware Classics, Inc.
Monroe, Ga.
770-267-0850
www.dinnerwareclassics.com


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