"requires a pretty advanced DIYer"

My indy is pretty good about telling me what I can and 
can't do myself - he knows the limitations of my
skills - and he recommended against my trying this.
It must sound easier than it is.

Chris

  

Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Jim Cathey wrote:
>>   There is a motor that, once the door is more or less closed, pulls 
>> the  door in and engages the lock - nice, but up there with 87 zone 
>> climate  control, IMO. It does the same when you unlock.
> 
> A door motor?  In an 87 124?  News to me.

The hatch lid of a 124.193 had a latching motor. That's all it does - 
latch the hatch. These are pretty reliable - as long as the plug doesn't 
drop out...

The hatch has struts that's supposed to hold it open. There have been 
several posts about replacing the struts - requires a pretty advanced 
DIYer, but can be done. May require a specialty wrench - maybe 12 point 
or Torx - not sure - different years might have different heads.

Marshall
-- 
   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
       "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1992 Volkswagen Golf, diesel, 185K km, "Nanook"
-1987 300TD, 151K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 211K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"
                
---------------------------------
 
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Subject: [MBZ] oil leaking from ignition lock vacuum lines - '80 300D
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A few observations:
  
  1. there is oil in both vacuum lines going to the ignition
  2. the oil dripped on the lower plastic panel
  3. the oil dripped onto the carpet
  4. the car will not turn off with the key unless while driving you run  the 
heat (only defrst works - NONE of the other buttons do anything,  except off) 
and then when done driving turn the defrost off, wait 30  seconds, then the key 
will turn the car off
  5. door locks don't work at all
  6. transmission shifts EXTREMELY smoothly, so that part of the vacuum system 
must be working fine
  7. no other vacuum lines have oil in them
  8. This is a 1980 300D with 113,000 miles
  
  Is it possible the vacuum pump is leaking oil only into 2 lines? Perplexed. 
Any thoughts are appreciated.
  
  Chris
  
  
  
  
  
  

Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1992 Volkswagen Golf, diesel, 185K km, "Nanook"
-1987 300TD, 151K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 211K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"
                
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Pry

cold

dead

hands

Not this week Kevin.  I will keep an eye out for possible inexpensive 
engines at the PnP.  For $150 you get everything that is attached to 
the block.  have to get there first thing so that it is not attacked by 
monkeys who strip what is not nailed down.


On Thursday, February 16, 2006, at 07:14 PM, kevin kraly wrote:

> I think she is going to try to nickel and dime me to death or at least
> until she looks FABULOUS!
>
> Just sell her to me, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE??  Then, I'd have a MUCH 
> better
> chance of having a running car!
>
> Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon
> 1973 220D project
>
>
> _______________________________________
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>
>


--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


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