Now that I know the trick, i will move faster next time. The second
front took maybe 15 min and the second rear, maybe an hour. It first
rear probably took 2.5 and killed 4, between taking breaks before and
after youboob sessions and trying to figure out the boot stuck to the
puck. (Going back to look for more tools, neverseeze, etc.)
The last time I changed the fronts I think the whole deal was an hour or
hour and a half. That included now rotors again. The good thing was
that I did not have to break into my regular tool box. I have been
slowly stocking tools at #1daughter's house. I think it is near stocked
for normal stuff. I still carry my regular box everywhere, and the
cordless drill kit. (except the charger this time. THAT was a mistake!)
I didn't bring an air rattle rench because I brought the 'lectric one.
Got here, bot batteries were dead flat. The charger I left here walked
60 miles away. I left the charger I normally carry because I knew I had
a charger here. So I had to take off and put on all the lug nuts the
manual way. I need to bring a rattle rench (air) here and just leave it.
I think 4 yrs for nicads is good, but some folks claim their dewalts
lasted 9 or 10 years. Probably the high AH battery packs, not the 1.5
or 2 AH they give ya with the $99 tools. 4 yrs is WAY better than any
other nicad i've had. PB batteries lasted about a year, motorola
batteries about the same.
Peter Frederick via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
December 26, 2016 at 6:42 PM
Gotta do the brakes on the Golf this week, same deal on the rear
brakes (it's the screw type parking brake that causes the issue, but
you don't have the drum brake parking brake to deal with).
Not really looking forward to it, but it's gotta be done.
First major thing on the Golf since I got almost two years ago. Will
need a timing belt soon, but that won't be done by me, I think.
Peter
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Curley McLain <mailto:126die...@gmail.com>
December 26, 2016 at 4:30 PM
Had to change out the new ceramic pads on the dogde van. That thing
eats pads, at least ceramic ones. In 85k miles, I think I have
changed front pads 3 times and rotors twice. Somehow this time I got
metallic pads in place of ceramic. I will try them. They can't be
worse!
This time I changed the rear pads too What a pain. I know the ATE
drum emergency brakes are a pain, but these crypsler rear disks are a
pain. I finally had to go to you boob to find out how to get the puck
compressed. (Special tool or needlenose pliers and a screwdriver.) I
opted for the latter.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AcPJ-MPUu0M
You screw the puck in. All fine and dandy when they do it on a new
car to write the book! In the Real World (RW) the boot rusts to the
puck and this does not work. I am sure the stealer would put on a new
caliper for $200 plus labor at this point. I opted to pry the boot
out of the groove in the puck, then screw the puck in. Then the boot
won't go in the groove. Screw the puck out, apply neverseeze in the
groove, stick the boot in the groove and hope this lubes it enough
that the boot will slide in the groove. It DOES! For the second
side, i pull out about 25% of the boot, stick neverseexe in the
groove, put the boot back in and turn in the puck. This side (Driver)
was not rusted as bad. IT WORKED!
As long as you don't have to mess with the parking brake shoes in ATE
calipers, they are way easier! Shove the pucks back, knock out the
pins, pull the old pads, put in the new pads, put in the pins, add
wear indicators if necessary or wanted and off ya go!
All these other crap brands you have to take off the frickin
calipers. Mooey stupido!
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