I did find this post which seems to answer the questions. Next step
would be to order, but first need to locate my soldering iron.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/313824-how-cruise-control-amp-repair-14-pin.html
On 5/18/2017 9:39 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
So can you point me to the proper caps that would be used on these amps?
On 5/18/2017 6:06 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:
Typically, yes. In my case it starts out at 105 when it’s in the low
70s and by late i the day when it’s in the 90s it’s off the scale -
it just goes blank after hitting 140F.
Thermistor is another Mouser part, about $2.00. I bought three of
them so I could have a couple spares. I think the bill was $12.00
with shipping.
-D
On May 18, 2017, at 7:00 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
<[email protected]> wrote:
Does a bad thermistor you are getting ready to replace cause he temp
to read wrong? My 95 shows 51 when it's another 81 outside.
Sent from my iPhone
On May 18, 2017, at 5:57 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes
<[email protected]> wrote:
I don’t buy into the “reflow every joint” approach on cruise amps,
as it’s been my experience this rarely yields results.
What you need to do it find all of the electrolytic capacitors,
which will be probably 8-10 total on the circuit board, and replace
them. You don’t need to strip any coatings, just desolder and
resolder, paying close attention to their polarity (I take a
Sharpie and put a dot on the circuit board next to the + terminal
before I remove the cap from the board.)
The caps will cost you all of maybe $10 from Mouser or one of the
other online electronics supply houses. Half of that cost will be
shipping.
-D (about to replace the thermistor on the outside temperature
display on the E300D)
On May 18, 2017, at 6:02 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
<[email protected]> wrote:
I pulled the cruise amp from the SDL with the hopes I had a
similar one laying around to try. Only couple I found are from 79
and 81, the pins are the same and might work, but maybe to exact
or something. Anyway I pulled mine apart. What is it you are
supposed to solder? The joints where the pins go to the board or
everything? I don't see anything that looks burned or cracked
joints. Also what do you use to clean off the coating off the back
side?
Sent from my iPhone
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