For future use:

I have found that when I'm going to encounter a screw or bolt that "will
likely be stuck" it is helpful to hit it dead on with a flat face punch the
size of the screw head, with a few blows with at least a 1 lb hammer.

This tends to break loose the rust bond at the thread level between the
screw or bolt and the fastener [nut, nut plate, blind hole threads, etc.].

Side benefit of the punch strike for phillips screws is that it moves metal
at the phillips bit area and "tightens" the phillips bit grip into the
screw... sometimes, I move enough metal I need to "drive" the phillips bit
into the screw... then have a good tight fit for max torque on the screw.

Also, spray the screw head down with penetrate... the shock of hammer blows
will help move it to the screw threads...

On Tue, Aug 14, 2018 at 11:29 AM, Craig via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
wrote:

> On Tue, 14 Aug 2018 12:34:30 -0500 OK Don via Mercedes
> <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
> > The rotational forces are applied to the teeth of the chuck. They only
> > go in-out, so don't care which way the drill is turning.
>
> But if the chuck is thread-on, you might unscrew it from the drill's
> drive. I have had that happen.
>
>
> Craig
>
>
> > On Tue, Aug 14, 2018 at 11:14 AM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes <
> > mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > > How do you keep the chuck tight when drilling backwards?
> > >
> > > RB
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > On 14/08/2018 10:32 AM, Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:
> > >
> > >> and, when you are buying the cobalt drills, buy left hand twist
> > >> drills. If they stick, they tend to unscrew the broken bolt, rather
> > >> than tighten it.
>
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