Had to be a bowl or an ashtray! ;-) I remember those days too.
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
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----- Original Message -----
From: "archer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 3:31 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
Thanks for the encouragement. I've done quit a bit of riveting/peening
too.
Maybe I will try it when the chains get up to 5 degrees. I'll bet you
were
making a bowl out of a flat sheet of aluminum in Jr. High shop, weren't
you?
(grin)
GerryA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Loren Faeth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
It rivets the head. Having grown up riveting knives on sickle bars and
riveting other things, I rivet the new style with a small ball peen
hammer. I am old enough that i spent Jr. High shop peening aluminum,
thereby having a first hand knowledge of how the hammer gets its name. I
guess there were people who were not careful enough to get the clip
snapped
in properly, so the master link has been officially banned. I did them
for
years and never had one come apart, but i always checked my work to be
sure
the clip was clipped correctly, since it is critical.
Since you also worked on OM 621 engines, I am sure you can rivet the link
without the special tool.
Loren
At 12:50 PM 4/5/2006, you wrote:
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> The procedures you;ve read are probably pretty descriptive.
> Basically,
> you
> attach the new chain to the old one, turn the engine slowly and feed
> the
> new
> one in as the old one comes out. When the old one is completely out,
> attach
> the ends of the new one together and using the special tool, fix the
> connecting link.
> There are places which will loan or rent you the special tool needed
> to
> finish off the connecting link --
> The critical part is to make sure the chain stays in contact with the
> sprockets so everything turns in concert. Where the chain engages the
> injection pump drive sprocket the clearence is tight enough to keep
> the
> chain engaged - but you'll need to keep tension on the chain so the
> chain
> stays tight against the cam sprocket, etc. Not a difficult job, but
> you
> must be vigilent so the chain doesn;t jump a link.
> Sincerely,
> Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
------------------------------------------
Does the special tool "rivet" or "brad" the chains patch link together?
The only one I've done; on a '67 200D; had a bicycle chain type patch
link
that snapped together without using a special tool.
GerryA
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