I think you put the adjustment tool in a little slot in the backer plate
to push on the toothed wheel on the adjuster? If the drum is on you
can't get at it. The wheel should not interfere unless it makes it
easier to get at the back of the brake assembly
--FT
On 5/24/19 3:26 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
I will probably pull the wheels back off and adjust the shoes, or I guess I
could do it with the wheels on. I did not measure the drums, they still looked
good with very little wear, at least they did not have a ridge at the edge. I
hate drum brakes.
Sent from my iPhone
On May 24, 2019, at 2:19 PM, G Mann via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
If you want bad brakes, rely on the automatic adjusters.
If you want good full pedal, adjust the shoes till they lock up the wheel,
then back the adjuster off until you just can feel a very light drag. First
couple of hard stops will "wear in" the shoes and you will turn free with
no drag.
OR,
Find a clear area and back up, hit the brakes while backing up, multiple
times ie pump, pump, pump.. pull forward and do it again and again.
The only time automatic adjusters engage is when you are backing up,
[clever huh?]
My personal preference is to manually adjust them so I can actually feel
that I have full contact, then back the adj off a touch.
You will much improve pedal travel and brake contact.
Question: Did you measure the rear drums when you had them off? It's
possible they were turned to the limit at last brake job and are now out of
limit large, so even new shoes won't fill the space?
On Fri, May 24, 2019 at 11:53 AM Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
If the master cylinder has air in it, will bleeding at the wheels remove
that air, or does it need to be bled in a separate procedure?
On 5/24/2019 1:21 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
Yea I guess I could try that. I had planned on just letting them
adjust out on their own.
On 5/24/2019 1:18 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:
So have you adjusted out the rear brake drums? If not, that would be my
next move.
-------------
Max
Charleston SC
On Fri, May 24, 2019 at 2:15 PM Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
Ok, I a bled the crap out of it. I did the bleeder at the abs unit,
then did all the wheels again started and RR, the LR, RF, LF. I ran
about 3qts of fluid thru it. At all wheels I have clean fluid and no
bubbles coming out. Took it out and it still has very little braking.
Pedal goes probably 3/4 of the way to the floor till any sort of
braking
action happens. It will stop, but not very fast and would not stop
pulling a trailer. Even if the back brakes were not fully adjusted out
yet it would be better than this. When I pump the pedal it does return
but its not an instant return as soon as you left off the pedal. Also,
when just holding steady pressure at about the half pedal travel or
oven
3/4 travel pedal does not sink it seems to stay steady. Also, the red
brake lite is on that would come on if the parking brake is on, the
manual says this indicates a brake problem. No joke. I really do not
see how I could still have air in the lines. Brakes are worse than
they
were before I replaced the rear wheel cylinders but they were never
very
good in the first place. The front calipers and hoses are fairly
new also.
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--FT
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