I’ve heard/seen this approach and it makes sense. However, you would need to be 
sure to have the correct line disconnected and have a helper to start/stop the 
engine, asa LOT fluid moves through those lines.

The drain/fill approach works as well, although it’s a bit more time and labor 
intensive. By the time you’ve done it three times, the volume of old fluid is 
so low to be insignificant.

-D

> On Jul 30, 2019, at 10:39 AM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
> <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
> Mitch Haley via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> writes:
> 
>> I got this method from a Ford factory manual in the 1990s.
>> Drain and change filter, if applicable (my Cruze doesn't have a readily 
>> replaceable filter).
>> Fill or slightly overfill.
>> Unhook cooler line and connect to a clear vinyl hose. 
>> Start and idle the car. 
>> When you've pumped out almost as much as you put in, stop and put more in.
>> When the fluid in the clear hose gets suddenly cleaner, stop and adjust 
>> fluid level as required.
> 
> Was going to suggest similar. Depending on the car you might need to
> shift through R-N-D when idling to get the fluid circulating.
> 
> When I changed fluid in my Volvo this spring, I did the drain/fill x 3
> method, driving a bit between drains to fully circulate the fluid. That
> took a while, but by the third draining the fluid was substantially
> cleaner.
> 
> Honda recommends the repeated drain/fill approach also.
> 
> You don't want to use "cheap" fluid for any of the fills in that method,
> since some portion of it will remain. Use the manufacturer recommended
> fluid. It seems somewhat wasteful but has the advantage of not messing
> with cooler lines, where there always the chance of causing damage, or
> introducing dirt into the system. That said, I will probably try it next
> time since it should use a lot less fluid and save some time.
> 
> Allan
> 
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