I'll use the inverted enlarging color head - very even illumination, just
need to modify it to use an LED light as the light source.
I use the Nikon mounted on a Leitz Reprovit II copystand - very ridig, and
have adapted a Zeiss 75mm S-Planar (IIRC) copy lens that is optimized for
1:1 reproduction and is very flat field. I'll switch to the Nikon 60mm
Micro-Nikkor for the larger format film (mine goes up to 8x10 with almost
everything in between).

I do shoot in RAW, and have been using Lightroom for processing, but
haven't found where/how to invert the image - might have to bite the bullet
and buy PS, or struggle through GIMP.

On Sat, Aug 10, 2019 at 11:23 AM Peter Frederick via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Yes, mainly negatives to positives.
>
> A few hints -- use an LED floodlight for a light source.  Reasonably
> collumated, so it reduces flare at the edges a little, and you can try
> various color balance ones to reduce the fiddling when inverting.
>
> Shoot in RAW and use Nikon conversion software to convert to TIFF -- you
> can adjust color balance, etc.  Leave in TIFF flormat with extra space
> below and above actual image data if you are going into PS or similar, you
> want a raw file going in.
>
> You will have to find the correct exposure to get a good inverted image,
> what looks "good" as a negative can be terrible once inverted.  Dark
> negatives make light positives and vice versa.  Contrast can't really be
> controlled at this point other than to use a condenser light source rather
> than and LED flood to push it up a bit.
>
> Use a 90mm macro lens and a very rigid setup.  Vivitar Series 1 from the
> 70s/80s would be perfect as they had a flatter field and better corner
> performance than Nikon or Pentax macros of similar focal length.  The
> better the lens the better the results, obviously.
>
> I pull the raw TIFF file into Photoshop, invert, then use levels to "trim"
> the red, blue, and green channels down to the actual image values.  Some
> channels look very "thin", but this works.  Adjust the neutral point in
> each channel to correct colors.  This should get you a very close color
> balance, although it will usually look flat.
>
> Go to "hue and saturation" in Adjustments and push up the saturation to
> suit -- I usually need a pretty good increase from movie film, standard
> negatives need less, but I find I need some most of the time.
>
> Then I adjust contrast/brightness, then color balance.
>
> If the negative was decent to start with this works pretty well.
>

-- 
OK Don

"Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to
pause and reflect." Mark Twain

"There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
for themselves."

WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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