Yes that's more correct Max... it has been a while since I have done this
and I mis-spoke.  Jacking up under each side so there's even pressure gives
you more room to work when you're laying on your back.  I want to say I had
a more clever approach to it at the time that was even easier but I can't
seem to recall what it was.   I think I was able to tighten everything just
laying on my back under the car. It's far easier to assemble the 5 link
with no load on it outside the vehicle and then tighten for road worthiness
later.



On Tue, Jan 7, 2020 at 9:16 PM Max Dillon via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

>
> Jacked up the spring link until even with the other side (ready to drive)
> and then tightened up the links.
>
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
>
> Jan 7, 2020 11:13:48 PM Max Dillon <dillonm...@gmail.com>:
>
> >
> > I was able to tighten all the links with the subframe mounted in the
> car. I think I removed a tire, jacked up the spring
> >
> > Max Dillon
> > Charleston SC
> >
> > Jan 7, 2020 10:59:17 PM Brian Toscano via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com>:
> >
> >
> > > When I worked on 124/201 I would assemble the subframe next to the
> vehicle
> > > and then put it on a transmission jack and roll it into place and
> secure it
> > > to the unibody, connect driveshaft, and brake lines, etc. The 5-link
> > > suspension can be tightened once it's installed under the vehicle by
> > > jacking up under the differential. Just don't drive it far without
> getting
> > > an alignment. The key point with any suspension work is to tighten
> > > bushings with the weight of the vehicle on the bushings (NOT with the
> tires
> > > hanging in the air). Using this method my ride height was within 1 mm
> of
> > > factory spec according to the dealer's alignment printout. :)
> > >
> > >
> > > On Tue, Jan 7, 2020 at 8:27 PM Curley McLain via Mercedes <
> > > mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > > What is the best way to install the rear subframe? Who has BTDT?
> > > >
> > > > i'm thinking to install the links and wheel carriers to the subframe
> > > > first. a straightedge across the top should line up with the centers
> > > > of the outer end of the top link. so that solves the problem of
> trying
> > > > to tighten links you can't get to with the subframe installed, with
> the
> > > > weight of the car on the subframe. (book method)
> > > >
> > > > I can tighten all the links, then install the subframe with springs.
> > > > The weight is in the wheel carriers.
> > > >
> > > > then install the axles and diff.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > as an alternative:
> > > > I could try assembling diff, axles and subframe, then raising it up,
> > > > with a series of blocks, left, right, front and rear. It would be
> > > > harder to get everything in place and hard to list by hand to push
> into
> > > > the final place for bolts.
> > > >
> > > > I am not ready yet. Have to patch holes in the body, weld up the
> > > > subframe mounts, replace brake lines, fuel hoses, etc before
> > > > installing. Then assemble the links and wheel carriers to the
> subframe.
> > > >
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>
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