When Rusty was still in business and I was rehabbing my $400 '83 240D. I did
all 4 brakes with the absolute cheapest rotors he had. I remember them being
$25 or less each with a weird brand name like "Standard" which was what was
printed on the box.I forget exactly but I think I drove that car for 25-30,000
miles on those brakes with the only issue being a failed rear caliper which was
IIRC an ATE reman I got at Advance which they replaced under warranty.I'm not
saying they were the best brakes in the world but they worked fine for the
money. More expensive brakes wouldn't have made any sense on that hoopty...
-Curt
On Monday, March 23, 2020, 3:03:09 PM EDT, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes
<mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
AutohausAZ offers a 4 different brake rotor brands selling from $27.59 to
$61.99 (OEM Mercedes). I would probably settle for ATE at the cheaper end
of the spectrum.
On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 2:41 PM Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> I read a pretty good description of the relationship btw pad and rotor
> somewhere. Basically the pad transfers a certain amt of material to the
> rotor when it is hot. If this is not done uniformly, the rotor surface
> becomes uneven and causes vibration when brakes are applied. There is also
> some change to the grain structure of the rotor which occurs unevenly if
> you stop when the brakes are hot. So you are supposed to get them good and
> hot a few times when new while avoiding full stops to get the material onto
> the rotor evenly and the structure to change evenly. After that it becomes
> less of a problem.
>
> On Mon, Mar 23, 2020, 11:15 AM G Mann via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> wrote:
>
> > All the "bedding in" procedures seem to be a poor mans heat treat to
> > stabilize the rotor grain structure and keep it from warping.
> > In the good old days, cast rotors were made from virgin iron ore, rather
> > than recycled scrap, such as they are now.
> > Recycled steel in today's foundry mix is a melt of steel and cast iron of
> > fairly unknown mix, since the scrap today is most likely steel or cast
> made
> > from previous mixes of steel and cast when it recycled the last 6 times.
> > Few castings are made from virgin iron ore these days.
> > Thus, rotors have hard and soft areas which react to heat/cool cycles
> > differently and warp, or expand at different rates which makes "pulsing
> > brakes"...
> >
> > Those are my thoughts.. yours may be different.
> >
> > On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 7:43 AM Jaime Kopchinski via Mercedes <
> > mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > > Some 116 and 107 rotors with a 116 part number are NLA from Mercedes.
> > Just
> > > got a set of Ate for a car, still available.
> > >
> > > Jaime
> > >
> > >
> > > On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 9:31 AM Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
> > > mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> > >
> > > > Ritter always said 3-4 stops from 60 to near zero in rapid
> succession,
> > > > then continue to drive normally for 10 minutes or so in order to
> allow
> > > > everything to cool off. I’ve used this approach for some years and
> > never
> > > > had a problem. However, I use ceramic pads almost exclusively now, so
> > I’m
> > > > not sure if this matters or not.
> > > >
> > > > -D
> > > >
> > > > > On Mar 23, 2020, at 9:26 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
> > > > mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > There is much tribalism around how to bed in rotors. I've not found
> > any
> > > > value in it but I still give it a try occasionally.
> > > > > My thought is that the first few stops with new pads and rotors
> > should
> > > > probably not be panic stops or descents down long grades while
> holding
> > > the
> > > > car at speed only with the brakes. Beyond that it doesn't seem to
> > matter.
> > > > Probably best to follow whatever the manufacturer recommends.
> > > > >
> > > > > -Curt
> > > > >
> > > > > On Sunday, March 22, 2020, 9:02:58 PM EDT, Kaleb Striplin via
> > > > Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I have read something about bedding them in. Supposed to make
> about
> > 10
> > > > > slow downs but not come to a complete stop so the pad does not sit
> on
> > > > > there and imprint material on the rotor. I have actually never
> > > followed
> > > > > this procedure before. I may have to replace these cheap rotors
> and
> > > > > actually go thru the bed in procedure.
> > > > >
> > > > > On 3/22/2020 7:49 PM, OK Don via Mercedes wrote:
> > > > >> Well, that would be hard with a new car - I'm calling BS.
> > > > >> You don't turn them because they are too thin.
> > > > >> Put a dial indicator on the rotor and measure to see if it's
> > wobbling
> > > or
> > > > >> not.
> > > > >>
> > > > >> On Sun, Mar 22, 2020 at 7:34 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
> > > > >> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> > > > >>
> > > > >>> <snip>. I seem to recall a long time ago hearing that you should
> > not
> > > > put
> > > > >>> brand new pads on brand new rotors, but not sure what the reason
> > > would
> > > > be
> > > > >>> if I did hear that somewhere.
> > > > >>>
> > > > >
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> > > > --
> > > Jaime Kopchinski
> > > http://www.jaimekop.com/
> > > _______________________________________
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