Saving any of that floor is a  waste of time then, and at ~$50 per hour you
need to get the job done quickly.  Tile work is probably worth a lot more
than $50 per hour, so material is very cheap compared to labor.  In your
place, I'd do it once and do it right, rip it all up and slap down
waterproof laminate, or put down a real tile floor using the correct
thickness of subfloor and cement backerboard and then quality tile.  IIRC
correctly from when I did our kitchen floor about 15 years ago, the
subfloor and the cement backerboard with the tile cement in between them
end up to be about 3/4 of an inch thick, and very stiff; on top of that is
another layer of cement to hold the tile, and then the tile, so by the time
you are done the sandwich of material is about an inch thick or even more,
very stiff and very strong.
-------------
Max
Charleston SC


On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 10:12 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> PS we have saved enough tiles without breaking them we might be able to
> get away with just pulling up some tiles in the bathroom and replace with
> tiles we have on hand but I’m not really sure I want to deal with trying to
> do that.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Aug 10, 2020, at 8:54 AM, Max Dillon via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > I really doubt it will dry through the tile.  Why not just remove the
> cracked tiles and see what's up?  If you find rot, you must keep removing
> tiles until you find the edges of the rot.
> >
> > Sounds like an inferior tile installation (should not crack unless
> severally abused).  Personally I think tile is best in a bathroom, but it
> is hard work to install it correctly.
> >
> > Do you have replacement tiles that match?  You might try just finding
> the rot edge, and fixing just that part then putting tile back in the
> patch.  However, if there is no cement backerboard under the tile (bad
> installation) then you need to rip and replace.
> >
> > Cement backerboard would have saved the wood subfloor for while, but
> going years with cracked tiles is not reasonable.  Backerboard should also
> make the floor stiff enough so tiles won't crack under normal use.
> >
> > Max Dillon
> > Charleston SC
> >
> > Aug 10, 2020 9:23:42 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com>:
> >
> >> As we discovered the toilet was leaking and soaked the area under the
> house including the osb subfloor from the bottom. The flooring in the
> bathroom is ceramic tile. It is mostly in good shape but does have a couple
> of cracked tiles which have been that way for years. I am assuming that
> water probably got in under the tile? I have planned on pulling up all the
> tile, drying it out of wet from above, then see what or if subfloor needs
> to be replaced. Does this seem like the right approach or will the tile
> breathe to dry out any moisture under it? I am thinking the grout with be
> porous and breathable? If we pull it out we would probably go back in with
> one of those waterproof laminate flooring types.
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >>
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