Hi George,
Yeah as far as I know ATF is good into the very early '90s. I've never had a
126 but my 123 and 201s have been very insensitive to fluid level. My 190D
didn't make untoward noises until the resevior was empty...
Every time I change the oil I stick the topsider in there and slurp out the
fluid down to the filter and refill. Once I year I pull the filter and use the
topsider to pull out all the fluid it can reach. Then put in a new filter and
refill.
With my 240D the first few times I did it the fluid I pulled out was a bit
darker than the good stuff I put in but rapidly cleared out. On the 190D the
gunk I pulled out was gross, then its only a bit dark and since it all leaked
out and I refilled its not bad at all...
I'm sure people who know more about the 126 will chime in.
-Curt
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2006 09:45:23 -0500
From: "George Larribeau" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] P/S Filter ?? 85 300SD
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
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>I replace the PS fluid (Mobil 1 ATF on our older cars) thats in the
>resevoir every oil change and the filter once a year.
Is Mobil 1 ATF OK in the PS in my 85 300SD? (it is currently in my
transmission) I am currently using the stuff in the blue bottle (Febi)
locally available OTC at 'foreign car parts suppliers. Should I replace
fluid and or flush it some how? A while back the PS got funky (real
small
leak) and I had to top it off to get it happy again. Verrrry fussy
system, I
know I put in more than a teaspoon but in no way was it a whole 'cup'.
(sorry I don't know how many bushels the trunk will hold).
George Larribeau
Dallas, Texas
1985 300SD 190K
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The MB stuff is for use on a new gasket, not to save an old one.
Replace it, you will then be leak-free, especially if you use the MB
sealant. DO NOT use ANY RTV anything in there, it will harden before
the gasket has conformed to the body and glass, and it will leak
permanently from day one. Seen that too many times!
I'ts not all that hard to replace the seal, although it will probably
take a couple installations before you get it perfect. Pry the lip of
the old seal over the body flange inside the car, starting in a corner
at the top, and remove window (you probably have to remove the base
molding first, and I'm not sure which car you have -- usually a screw
inside the door area and then spring clips. Make a tool and see if you
can find the clips first -- the trim bends easily).
The, remove gasket from window, pull the inserted trimout, clean the
glass, install the gasket on the glass and put the inserted trim back
in. Make sure it's aligned correctly, the wrap two rounds of thin cord
or insulated wire (I use 10 or 12 gauge) around the gap between the
exterior lip and the interior lip. Hold the ends in place while
someone puts the window over the hole, line it up and press it into the
hole, then pull the wire or cord out and force the interior lip over
the body flange. Easier to do than to describe. You may get it all in
one round, but I usually need the second. You may also need to "help"
it in the corners. Once it gets started well, it will "pop" over
almost by iteself. Make sure the window stays centered, it will want
to slide around as you pull.
It will then take a day or two for the window to settle in, so it may
leak a bit until it does.
The only real pain here is if the paint is bad under the seal. You
MUST repair it -- sealing surface must be clean and smooth (not
necessarily flat, but smooth). Remove any rust, etch prime,
featherfill, and paint before re-installing the gasket. I recommend at
least 24 hrs after painting, 48 is better, before installing the gasket
so the paint won't rub off.
Peter
