A bad diaphram will do several things -- it is resistant to flexing when 
installed, so the valve won't open and close on demand, tending to stay in one 
position or the other (that is, too much heat, not enough), it won't seal 
correctly when closed (too much heat, a real pain in the summer), and it will 
leak into the solenoid coil and corrode it, causing the valve to stick even 
more and eventually fail.  This can cook some PBCUs.  

Cheap and easy enough in a W126, no reason not to spend the $30 or so.  Ditto 
for a thermostat -- if it won't come up to temp quickly under load in the 
winter, replace the thermostat.  Cheap, fairly easy, make a huge difference.

Note that a 603 in bitter cold weather will NOT come up to operating 
temperature at light load no matter how long you idle it.  I've been stuck by a 
train and sat there watching the temp gauge slowly fall while I froze...

Peter

-----Original Message-----
>From: "M.Afzaal.Khan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Sent: Oct 18, 2006 1:42 AM
>To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
>Subject: [MBZ] Heat & AC Failure   monovalve
>
>
>Ok Its better now we know the car  model !  As  mentioned
>earlier on ,first replace the monovalve then check for other faults,which
>simply may not exist after the monovalve has been replaced.
>
>i had a similar fault   with varied a/c symptoms ,all was  normal after
>replacing  only the monovalve.  (worn diaphragm)
>mak
> 300SE/1990
>
>
>> That last posting regarding heat and AC failure - the car is a 1990 300SE
>> thanks,
>> les
>>
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