In a message dated 10/4/2007 11:49:36 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Just ordered replacement starter for 300SD, and I cannot seem to find the job in manuals. Anybody know what job or even group # for this project, and especially any tips or thoughts from personal experience? Steve, For starters, I have no experience with the 126 chassis, so my input is the earlier 116 chassis diesel. Should be similar. You are correct, I just went through my shop manual (78-80 300SD) and no mention of removing the starter. I would start by removing the ground cable, then the air cleaner assy. You can then reach down and remove the big cable nut (13mm) with two wires, and the small cable nut (8mm) with one wire. You almost have to do this by feel but you must remove them first as there will be too much stress if you hang the starter by these cables. Most diesel starters (very heavy) have a small 90 degree bracket that supports the front end of the starter (10mm wrench/socket). You must remove the bracket to allow the starter to move forward. (Note the coolant drain plug in the block, just forward of the starter. If you ever plan to remove this plug (17 or 19mm hex) for coolant service later on, now, when the starter is removed is the time to break this sucker loose and then coat it with antisieze). The two big starter mounting bolts that pass through the bell housing into the starter are internal hex of 10mm, I think. I use about 30 inches of 1/2" extentions and a breaker bar to go in over the back of the transmission and onto these bolts. ONE of our listers claims he can reach down over the fender and break these bolts loose using a stubby hex and a long box wrench! In my prime, I never could imagine doing that! NOTE: Use brake cleaner to rid the hex sockets (and your tool) of any dirt and grease. You must have a good connection to brake these loose and you don't want to round one out. Wear heavy gloves cause when these break loose, you will likely bash into something. Raising up the car enough to swing a half inch drive breaker bar is almost a must for proper leverage. At to the starter, I prefer one with a Bosch solenoid. Good amperage flow is a must with a diesel and some of the after market solenoids are not up to the task. Then compare the length of the new starter with your old one. If you get one that is shorter, send it back, you need all the power that a heavy duty starter can provide. And the bracket will fit. Also, if the starter has a heat shield on it, put it back. Hot soaked starters are prone to hang up until they cool off again. Maybe that is the reason you are changing this starter!? Finally, if your motor mounts have sagged, you may not have room to jockey the starter out of the car. You might have to jack the engine up a little. I have been able to both lift the starter up through the engine compartment, and take it out down below. As one lister mentioned turning the steering full lock will let you clear the idler arm. Good luck, Jim Friesen Phoenix AZ 79 300SD, 264 K miles 98 ML 320, 152 K miles ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com _______________________________________ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
