"ONE of our listers claims he can reach down over the  fender
and break these bolts loose using a stubby hex and a long box  wrench!  In my
prime, I never could imagine doing that!"

I almost never go over the trans with extensions.  On cars with hex 
bolts, I turn an offset box wrench backwards, so the bosy of the 
wrench is forward of the firewall, and take them out. For the 10mm 
allen head bolts, I put a short 10MM socket on my floppy 3/8 drive 
rachet and take them out with it.

I  guess I am the second on the list.  But the factory manual says to 
go over the trans.

Loren


At 03:19 PM 10/4/2007, you wrote:
>
>In a message dated 10/4/2007 11:49:36 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
>[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>
>Just  ordered replacement starter for 300SD, and I cannot seem to find the
>job in manuals.  Anybody know what job or even group # for this  project,
>and
>especially any tips or thoughts from personal  experience?
>
>
>
>Steve,
>
>For starters, I have no experience with the 126  chassis, so my input  is the
>earlier 116 chassis diesel.
>Should be similar.
>You are correct, I just went through my shop manual (78-80 300SD) and no
>mention of removing the starter.  I would start by removing the 
>ground  cable,
>then the air cleaner assy.  You can then reach down and remove the  big cable
>nut (13mm) with two wires, and the small cable nut (8mm) with one  wire.  You
>almost have to do this by feel but you must remove them first 
>as  there will be
>too much stress if you hang the starter by these cables.
>
>Most diesel starters (very heavy) have a small 90 degree bracket that
>supports the front end of the starter (10mm wrench/socket).  You 
>must  remove the
>bracket to allow the starter to move forward.  (Note the 
>coolant  drain plug in
>the block, just forward of the starter.  If you ever plan to  remove 
>this plug
>(17 or 19mm hex) for coolant service later on, now, when the  starter is
>removed is the time to break this sucker loose and then coat it 
>with  antisieze).
>The two big starter mounting bolts that pass through the bell housing into
>the starter are internal hex of 10mm, I think.  I use about 30 
>inches of  1/2"
>extentions and a breaker bar to go in over the back of the transmission and
>onto these bolts.  ONE of our listers claims he can reach down over 
>the  fender
>and break these bolts loose using a stubby hex and a long box  wrench!  In my
>prime, I never could imagine doing that!
>NOTE:
>Use brake cleaner to rid the hex sockets (and your tool) of any dirt and
>grease.  You must have a good connection to brake these loose and 
>you don't  want
>to round one out.  Wear heavy gloves cause when these break loose, you  will
>likely bash into something.  Raising up the car enough to swing a half  inch
>drive breaker bar is almost a must for proper leverage.
>
>At to the starter, I prefer one with a Bosch solenoid.  Good amperage  flow
>is a must with a diesel and some of the after market solenoids are not up  to
>the task.  Then compare the length of the new starter with your old  one.  If
>you get one that is shorter, send it back, you need all the 
>power  that a heavy
>duty starter can provide.  And the bracket will fit.
>
>Also, if the starter has a heat shield on it, put it back.  Hot soaked
>starters are prone to hang up until they cool off again. Maybe that 
>is the  reason
>you are changing this starter!?
>
>Finally, if your motor mounts have sagged, you may not have room to jockey
>the starter out of the car. You might have to jack the engine up a 
>little.   I
>have been able to both lift the starter up through the engine 
>compartment, and
>  take it out down below.  As one lister mentioned turning the steering full
>lock will let you clear the idler arm.
>
>Good luck,
>
>Jim  Friesen
>Phoenix AZ
>79 300SD, 264 K miles
>98 ML 320, 152 K  miles
>
>
>
>
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Loren Faeth 


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