This shouldn't be this painful, nor should you need to pull the cluster. Start by cracking the nut loose on the larger clutch pedal switch, It's a 17mm IIRC. Then unscrew the switch a few turns, which will raise the resting position of the clutch pedal, giving you more travel. Next adjust the free-play on the master cylinder pushrod by cracking the 12 mm locknet loose. Once that nut is loose you should be able to easily turn the pushrod by hand. You will need to lengthen it to reduce free-play. Turn the rod to lengthen and as soon as you feel it touch the piston in the master, back off a hair. Get under the car (easiest with two people) and try to push the slave pushrod back into its bore. If you can push it in, you still have some free-play. If it won't budge, you have covered the fill/bleed hole from the reservoir into the master cylinder and need to shorten the rod on the clutch pedal a little. You want as little free-play as possible while still allowing the slave pushrod to be pushed back into its bore.
________________________________ From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Kandasamy, Thuwaragan Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 9:39 AM To: [email protected] Subject: RE: Need help\tips on adjusting clutch rod. The car is still on Jack stands ... and yes, when the car is off, it easily goes into gear with\without the clutch pedal being depressed. I didn't try starting the car in gear to see what happens just cause of my habbit of starting in neutral and then going into gear, I'll try to do that tonight tho. As for the possibility of the clutch disc being installed the wrong way, well, that's why I wanted my buddy there when I did it, cause he's done this on Miatas waaay too many times, and actually, he was the one that installed and torqued down both the disc and pressure plate. I'd be very surprised if that was installed the wrong way, but then again, for my luck, who knows. :-) So I take it that the bronze~ish looking nut on the clutch adjustment rod is the one that I should concentrate on rotating? I tried that at first, then noticed the black nut in front of it, and thought maybe I should adjust that one. That explains why the black nut didn't wanna budge one bit!! I'll concentrate all my efforts on rotating that bronze nut tonight then. Another really annoying thing with that clutch adjustment rod is the fact that is swings left to right quite a bit when I try to rotate with the wrench, so it takes up all the room I have to break the nut loose. I swear, this rod is gonna make me see dead people pretty soon!!! :-) lol So to take the clutch pedal off, I'm guessing I should take the nut that's pointing right at the ECU off ... right? I believe it was a 14mm nut. I tried to take the ECU off to gain more room under there, but other than the 10mm nut on the firewall, I can't see what else is holding it in place, but I KNOW something else is keeping it from coming off. If I can take the stock ECU off, maybe I can take this opportunity and finally plug my Hydra in and start my Turbo install too. :-) I wonder if my car will ever be off the jack stands at this rate. :-( ________________________________ From: Thomas Smith [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: May 21, 2008 11:20 AM To: Ashraf Farrag Cc: Kandasamy, Thuwaragan; [email protected] >> Miata Power List Subject: Re: Need help\tips on adjusting clutch rod. Its fairly simple to remove the clutch pedal assembly from the car if nothing else works to loosen the nuts on the adjustment rod. Also remember it looks like two nuts under there. You want to loosen the jamb nut, the other nut is welded in place and won't loosen. I had the same frustrations with my ACT clutch. I finally relocated the fulcrum point on the clutch rod by drilling another hole in the clutch pedal arm to get more travel from the clutch rod and thus raise the engagement point of the pedal. It was fairly involved and took some welding and bending but I'm very satisfied and my clutch engagement point matches stock. On Wed, May 21, 2008 at 8:09 AM, Ashraf Farrag <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Kandasamy, Thuwaragan wrote: > > Okay, so I got the ACT Extreme clutch in (with the help of my friend > who's done this countless number of times) and everything is bolted > back up ... however, when the car is running, I can't put it into gear. > The clutch is all the way down to the floor, and still not enough to > engage the gear. I checked the master cylinder and there's no leaks, > same for the slave cylinder. Also checked to make sure the slave > cylinder is on right, and pushing the fork when I depress the clutch > pedal. > This sounds painfully familiar. With the car on jack stands, can you put it into gear with the car turned off, start it up and the wheels spin as you start it? > > I'm open to any and all suggestions ... J It is possible that you put the clutch disc in backwards. Either that or you got the wrong disc for the clutch and the pressure plate fingers are hitting the center spline of the disc and it won't release completely to let you put it in gear. Broken fork and hose pilot bearing are also possibilities. Here is my thread on the same matter earlier this year: http://list.miatapower.net/lurker/thread/20071230.054732.a7f88ad0.en.htm l#20071230.054732.a7f88ad0 Regards, --Ashraf _______________________________________________ Miatapower mailing list [email protected] http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower
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