It's really not difficult to take the cover off the wiring harness on that side of the engine and trace each wire back to the firewall. That was a necessary part of my ill-fated coldside supercharger install (so happy to have that thing gone). All of the throttle body sensors needed to move from the front to the back, so the wiring harness had to be opened and split.
Really, for the 10 minutes it takes, you can mark a BIG item off the list. Then apply new tape and wire loom after your done. My 99 motor had a nick in the top engine wiring harness (that connects the injectors). A nick! This was hidden under the wire loom and not something I did myself. I assume it left the factory this way. I had the harness open to trace wires and see if I could use it instead of the 97 harness. Turned out I couldn't, but it was still the oddest thing I'd ever seen - a nick in a factory-sealed wiring harness. Adam On 6/11/08, Bryan Wyatt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Some good points in there, Jim. One test I could also do is to run the car > around the block then turn the AC on (for some reason, most of the failures > I've noted were when the AC was on). If nothing else, let it idle and do a > wiggle test. > > I do know for certain that the ECU is right next to the steering wheel, and > know exactly what wire going into it I'm looking for a signal on. However, > once it gets away from the connector at the ECU, everything is wrapped up > together. Would I have to take the whole thing apart to check it (I'm > assuming if I have to, so would a Mazda tech). > > -Bryan > >
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