Nah, you're not pumping gallons of propane in there, your using the smallest
amount that comes out of the torch and since it's heavier than air it drops
out of the engine bay quickly.



Larry
 
White Knight      1991 Crystal White   #99 CSP
Silver Bullet        1992 Silverstone     #17 SM2  FM I+ Turbo
Honey B             1992 Sunburst Yellow #99 SM2L  JR Supercharger
Whooosh           2004 Titanium Mazdaspeed MX-5
 
LowCountry Miata  http://www.lowcountrymiataclub.net
Masters Miata
RAGS 074


-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Wiseman, Curtis J
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 3:20 PM
To: Larry Alster; [email protected]
Subject: RE: Help diagnosing an intake leak

I did notice and I thought "FOOM".  

-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Alster [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 2:18 PM
To: Wiseman, Curtis J; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [email protected]
Subject: RE: Help diagnosing an intake leak

Notice I specified unlit.  It is scary but I have had a few responses
through the years about how do you not burn things!!  



Larry
 
White Knight      1991 Crystal White   #99 CSP
Silver Bullet        1992 Silverstone     #17 SM2  FM I+ Turbo
Honey B             1992 Sunburst Yellow #99 SM2L  JR Supercharger
Whooosh           2004 Titanium Mazdaspeed MX-5
 
LowCountry Miata  http://www.lowcountrymiataclub.net
Masters Miata
RAGS 074


-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Wiseman, Curtis J
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 3:13 PM
To: Larry Alster; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [email protected]
Subject: RE: Help diagnosing an intake leak

Do you like the "running with scissors" method too? :-)

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Larry Alster
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 2:04 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [email protected]
Subject: RE: Help diagnosing an intake leak

Unlit propane torch is my favorite method.



Larry
 
White Knight      1991 Crystal White   #99 CSP
Silver Bullet        1992 Silverstone     #17 SM2  FM I+ Turbo
Honey B             1992 Sunburst Yellow #99 SM2L  JR Supercharger
Whooosh           2004 Titanium Mazdaspeed MX-5
 
LowCountry Miata  http://www.lowcountrymiataclub.net
Masters Miata
RAGS 074


-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Matt Bennett
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 10:43 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Help diagnosing an intake leak

After what Ray pointed out to me (below), I looked at some old DLL logs
and saw that my Idle MAP reading that is now about 70 used to be in the 40
range.  So I slapped myself around a bit and started to look for a vacuum
leak.  I haven't found anything particularly bad.

Anyone have any tip or tricks on looking for an intake leak?  I tried
pressurizing the intake to a few PSI with my compressor and listening for
hissing, but it has been really hard to localize- possibly going through
an open intake valve?.  One thing that I was wondering- how much of the
stock 1.8l engine's cycle has all of the intake valves closed?  I did find
a better place to put the fuel pressure regulator's vacuum hose, but
wiggling stuff around hasn't brought me any closer to bringing the vacuum
down to a more appropriate value.

Regards,

Matt
'96 with prototype Ubercharger


On Sun, September 7, 2008 1:12 pm, Ray Ayala wrote:
> The log shows the idle switch signal on even when the map signal show that
> either the throttle is open or there's a big intake air leak.  The idle
> switch signal kills the fuel completely when rpm is above the idle control
> range (~1850 rpm).
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Matt Bennett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2008 7:39 PM
> Subject: Bucking, DLL help
>
>
>> Howdy folks,  I'm trying to figure out my latest issue, I seem to
>> remember
>> this type of problem being discussed before, but I didn't take adequate
>> notes.  Right now, the most annoying problem I have is that my car has
>> some very abrupt on/off transitions- also the "idle oscillation" is
>> pretty
>> bad.  You can see both of these characteristics in this (really long)
>> log:
>>
>> <http://www.hazmat.com/~mjb/projects/miata/DataLogs/2008-09-06a.bin>
>>
>> The vitals on this car:
>> 1996 with prototype Ubercharger (intercooled, with air temperature
>> sensor)
>> 550cc Injectors
>> Vishnu Dual feed fuel rail
>> Link ECU (non OBD- I believe that this is referred to as a 94-95 Link)
>> AEM WB02
>> Stock engine internals
>> Setup for (but not installed) NB02
>>
>>
>> Another thing I'm thinking of- I realize that tuning on the road is
>> difficult, dangerous, and often runs afoul of the law- has anyone
>> created
>> a script for the most cost effective way to use a dyno?  The one that I
>> can rent time on is a brake dyno (not a Dynojet).  I want to tune for 1)
>> emissions and 2) power with drivability- and 1 and 2 don't have to be
>> the
>> same map :)
>>
>> The vast majority of the adjustments appear to be with fuel- is it
>> because
>> changing fuel zones is easier and more effective than adjusting timing?
>> Or is timing just a lot more dangerous to play with.
>>
>> With the 94-95 link, can I have both WB and NB O2 sensors logged? I
>> realize only one will actually be adjusting settings.  If I tune for one
>> sensor, will I need to change maps when I move between sensors, or can I
>> just do it through the Link keypad?
>>
>> I realize I need to sit down with the tuning manuals from FM- I went
>> looking on Flyin' Miata's site and didn't find the Link tuning manual-
>> I've got an old copy- what is the latest revision?
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Matt Bennett
>> Austin, TX
>> '96 with prototype Ubercharger
>> _______________________________________________
>> Miatapower mailing list
>> [email protected]
>> http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower
>



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