I'm not familiar the the act clutch (i have a spec clutch) .... however, i 
have loads of experience with lightweight racing clutches behind 
small-block chevys (stock car racing) .... one thing that i always had to 
keep an eye on was "coning"  this is where the pressure plate and flywheel 
would both become conical over time. The evidence could often be found on 
the disc (the surface becomes tapered)  and the extent could be measured 
by putting a straightedge across the entire face (across the center) of 
either the PP or flywheel (this may be that which they are suggesting you 
check). If this "coning" does not exist (is less than .010"?) then you 
should be fine. The pressure plate can be resurfaced to remove the 
"coning" a finite number of times (once maybe twice depending on how bad 
it is and how severe the future usage will be).

Chris Messmer
Roos Instruments, Inc.
2285 Martin Ave
Santa Clara, CA 95050



From:
Ashraf Farrag <[email protected]>
To:
[email protected]
Date:
04/28/2010 08:21 AM
Subject:
Re: Clutch disc recommendation
Sent by:
[email protected]



It sucks to have plenty of time to do car work (plenty of things I can 
fabricate from scrap with a TIG and plasma cutter) but essentially no 
budget for stuff you can't really fab.  :(

Some follow-up questions:
* Has anyone put another disc on a used pressure plate and what 
experience have you had?
* Has anyone worked with a clutch rebuilder to refurb a pressure plate?

ACT tech support via chat didn't see any problem with it but mentioned 
putting a straightedge to the pressure plate to make sure it was in 
spec.  The machine shop that is resurfacing the flywheel begs to differ 
with my scheme to save money by just replacing the disc.  We did not put 
a straightedge to it but one can visualize slight wear on the pressure 
plate from the disc that was on there.

The main machinist looked at it and said it would not be a good idea but 
we didn't go into details.  I ran into the other fellow I work with on 
the way out and said he had seen someone attempt similar and that the 
new disc would "self-clearance" after slipping for a bit until the edges 
of the disc wear to the wear on the pressure plate.  Not ideal.

I could continue to run the old disc (which has like ~80% of it's life) 
until the disc is worn but it is no fun trying to drive with that clutch 
on the street.

I guess this is why discs and pressure plates are sold as a set (unless 
one can get the pressure plate surface machined (or a new one) and then 
I guess you would need to machine the flywheel step to match)...

--Ashraf
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