I don't know anything about RTlink but you're on the right track with manual 
tuning.  Keep in mind that with the O2 sensor that far from the engine its 
response time will vary with the larger-than normal temperature variations that 
occur due to exhaust heating vs exterior air cooling.  Also keep in mind that 
in any given zone the O2 readings (combustion efficiency) vary with the surface 
temperatures in the combustion chamber ... they'll be hotter after an 
acceleration blast then they will be after just cruising for for even a few 
seconds.  So limit your data collection observations to times that are preceded 
by similar short-term histories, e.g. long, slow light-acceleration runs 
preceded by 30 sec of benign crusing.  And for the max boost zones, find a long 
steep hill to climb so that the rate of change of rpm is slow.
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Mymiataflys 
  To: [email protected] 
  Sent: Sunday, November 21, 2010 7:06 AM
  Subject: Link tuning


  I'm trying to to tune my old sleeve bearing turbo , it's on a 94 motor that's 
in my 91 chasis. I've had the car and link for a number of years with only 
moderate success getting it tuned. It currently has a lc1 wide band mounted 
just in front of the cat, exhaust gas temp probe on the manifold, and an 
electric fuel pressure gauge. I've tried installing and running RTlink and I 
can't seem to get a handle on it. When I try to tune with the link in its 2 
auto tune modes I end up with fairly crazy numbers, mostly way too rich. 
Recently I've decided to try tuning it in what I call a manual way. What I 
would like to be able to do is turn off all lamba corrections and drive the car 
in the center of each zone across the rpm band while data logging. look at the 
wideband plot and make my own corrections. I'm not sure if I am turning all 
lamba off.  I have the lamba screen on the keypad so that it does not display 
the L3 icon and it says lamba off. I also have gone to zone Z800 and increased 
it from 0 to 4.  On my datalogs it does not indicate any L3 corections but it 
does display L4 values of 4 or 5.  Question. Can I tune the car this way?  If 
yes, am I doing it correctly?  

  Also sometimes I swear I can be out driving and I will see L3 corrections of  
9  then 10 minutes later 1 for the same zone same exact conditions.  I can also 
see on the keypad intake air temps while cruising of say 18  with a correction 
of +1 and then I will see a corection of 0 or +2 and check the intake temp and 
it has not changed. 

  Thanks
  Michael




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