I would agree with most of what you said except the heat can be a problem
only if you are raving, er racing. The heat problem comes in with
normal day to day driving where the car, for most people, never has a chance
to warm up. You can never give your car full foot until a turbo car
really warms up, if you want it to last 100,000 miles. Also, everytime
you stop your car it really is a good idea to idle the thing for five minutes...
I had a turbo Rabbit and believe me, that idle thing is a PAIN IN THE ASS!
Can you imagine running over to the store and idling for five, then going
to the Sushi place, idling for five minutes, then here, another five, then
there another five... it really adds up. Now, you don't actually
need to be in the car but it's not very practical for a daily driver.
New cars are a totally different matter where they have coolant pumps and
stuff like that which run even when the car is off but rarely does a retrofit
kit have that kind of sophistication. Boy, did it ever feel cool
to get all that boost though!
Later,
Clayton
Heat can be a problem if you are racing. On the street with the volume
of air flowing through the engine compartment you would be hard
pressed to
maintain over 130 degrees (given 80 degree ambient) under hood with
a turbo.
We've done back to back testing before and after turbo installs
and rarely
have seen more than a 10 degree jump. What can be a problem are
things
directly around the turbine housing (hot housing). Wiring, hose,
whatever it
is if it's too close it will be cooked. Proper measures need to
be taken
during the design phase to locate the turbo away from hazards. Also
generous
amounts of heat shielding will solve just about any heat problem.
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From ???@??? Fri Jan 28 17:47:26 2000
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Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 14:25:19 -0800
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You need to read more carefully Tom. We are talking about retrofitted A2 GTi 16v engines here... NOT FACTORY FITTED TURBO
CARS!!!! I have a much different opinion of a factory fitted turbo car.
No mean intentions,
Clayton
Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 15:07:32 -0500
From: Tom Coradeschi
Subject:
On 01/28/2000, Clayton wrote:
>I would agree with most of what you said except the heat can be a
>problem only if you are raving, er racing. The heat problem comes
>in with normal day to day driving where the car, for most people,
>never has a chance to warm up. You can never give your car full
>foot until a turbo car really warms up, if you want it to last
>100,000 miles. Also, everytime you stop your car it really is a
>good idea to idle the thing for five minutes...
I'll take some minor issues with this. The amount of time you need to
idle the turbo down is a function of a bunch of things, most
importantly heat and speed. If you've just come off a hot drive, with
your foot firmly planted a large percentage of the time (like, say
the cops pull you over), idling the turbo down lets it a: spin down
to a slow speed and b: cool off.
After a REALLY hard drive, a minute or so will be plenty.
On the other hand, if you've been putting around town and need to
stop at the hardware store, 15 seconds will suffice.
In addition to owning an 88 GLI (hence my presence here) and an 85
BMW K100RS motorcycle, we also own a 91 Saab 900 Turbo. It's been
treated as described above and has no problems - about 110,000 miles
on the clock. My last boss had 175k on his 900T before he gave it to
his son - original turbo, treated as described. Any way you cut it, 5
minutes is big overkill. Cheaper insurance is the use of fully
synthetic oils.
tom coradeschi
[email protected]
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