In a message dated 6/24/02 12:28:25 AM, [email protected] writes: << I once saw a blockoff kit to get rid of this on Ebay, but does anyone know if that would be safe? I thought the vacuum line from the EGR valve went to the brake booster or something? Basically, I just need some info on this procedure from someone who knows about it. >>
- The main problem with the EGR valve is that it, or the vacuum amplifier it works with tend to fail. Both parts cost over $100. When they fail, you get erratic idling and bad gas mileage. According to our chip burning buddy Garrett, removing the EGR results in a small 2-4hp gain. I run my car without it and just put it back in every time I have to smog it. To remove it, just unbolt the valve, and remove all the vacuum lines and the vacuum amplifier. Get vacuum caps and plug up all the connections. You can plug up the exhaust manifold with an oil pan drain bolt. Plugging up the intake manifold hole is up to you. As cheesy as it sounds, I just use a big flathead bolt with some silicone. It works perfectly. <<also, once after driving on a hot day i turned off the car for a minute then when i tried to start it, the engine wouldn't really turn over, it felt like something was stuck, but I held the key on start for a couple seconds and it fired up. Any ideas to this problem? >> - Either your ignition switch or your starter might be taking a crap. One other possibility is a crappy ground connection at your battery. Remove the ground cable and clean the connections at both ends of it. Alex Ranarivelo South California '91 GTI 16V w/European Motorworks ported 1.8 16V head, euro intake cam, Garrett chip, 50mm intake, Borla exhaust, 3.90 ring and pinion, .80 5th gear, no A/C, neuspeed lowering springs, and rear tri-tie bar. 140hp@the wheels. <A HREF="http://www.iders.com/alexweb/";>Alex's Tuning Information</A>
