Hmmm, I'm experiencing what could be a related problem, so how sure are you about "no washers, no nothing"? A month ago, I replaced the auto-adjusting cable with the manually adjusting one, but did not install the washers & bushing next to the firewall (didn't know about them then...) I had to adjust the cable almost to the limit, to take most of the free travel out of the clutch lever at the gearbox... car drove fine for a while -- got me as far as the South of France, where I drove on vacation, then broke down spectacularly (in Monte Carlo, of all places) -- clutch pedal stayed on the floor and wouldn't come back up unless I pulled it up. The cable was OK, but it appeared the free travel of the clutch lever had increased to the point where I could no longer adjust the cable enough to compensate. The clutch was still engaged with the pedal on the floor... (fortunately, I have breakdown insurance, so they're shipping my car back home...)
Anyone have any idea what this could be? I can see how the manual cable installed without the bushings at the firewall could end up being too short to disengage the clutch properly. What really alarms me is the fact that the free travel of the clutch lever had visibly increased. What would cause this? On your cars, how far can you pull up the clutch lever by hand? Thanks for your help. Oleg > You can pretty much convert to the self adjusting > clutch cable without having to do anything. No > washers, no nothing. > ... > > -josh > > --- Scott Schumacher <[email protected]> wrote: > > As for the clutch cable, I believe when converting > > from the self adjustable > > you'll need 2 big ass washers and a rubber bushing > > that go up against the > > firewall and it doesn't hurt to get the big ass > > bushing that goes on the > > tranny lever. Thats all you'll need though. The > > kit from Adirondack comes > > with everything you'd need. > >
