I concur with opinions expressed earlier. When I've done this, I've preferred taking the drive shafts out. Their absence simply provides additional space to maneuver the trans when trying to extract/install. It will be frustrating enough to get the splines to properly engage the clutch/flywheel and you'll appreciate the extra space. Just remember that if the driveshafts are out, do not place any load on the front wheels. I'm told the front wheel bearings will be ruined without the driveshafts in the hubs. I don't know if that's true or not. But considering how difficult it is to replace the front wheel bearings-- I've never challenge that notion.
I'm currently going through similar removal/install. I just extracted my Transmission, cleaned it, packed it up along with a Peloquin LSD that I've had sitting on a shelf for eight years and shipping it all to BrokeVW for a rebuild. -Les On 10/10/11 7:37 AM, "Chad Rebuck" <[email protected]> wrote: >I replaced the head gasket with a fiber type gasket last week and now >the coolant leak is gone. It turned out that the machine work to >surface the block and head were too rough for the aba metal layer >gasket to seal. > >Now that I've driven the car a couple days I realize the transmission >output flange seals are leaking pretty good. I have another >transmission to swap in, but I wondered how much of a job this is >without a lift. Can the trans be replaced easily up on jack stands? >I already know I'll need someone to help hold the trans to >remove/install. Perhaps I could use my engine lift to support the >trans? > >Any experience or recommendations to share? > >Thanks >Chad >_______________________________________________ >a2-16v-list mailing list >[email protected] >http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list _______________________________________________ a2-16v-list mailing list [email protected] http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
