That would make sense - at some point in owning a 1.8, I replaced the 2-piece
water pump pulley with something OE that eliminated one of the pulleys. Most
likely from a 2.0 16v.
Matthew
On Saturday, December 26, 2015 12:50 PM, Holland Phillips
<[email protected]> wrote:
Matthew,
I don't think that the 2.0 liter Motronic cars have the cloth insulater you
speak of between the pullys on the water pump. Having removed/replaced every
pully on the engine of my car more times than I care to remember, I never came
across a cloth insulater anywhere in the whole pully system. I actually
replaced some of the pullys with aluminum under drive pullys in the never
ending quest for more performance. ~HollandAh, so there IS a high/low oil
pressure buzzer. One of the first things I did after purchasing my '92 GTI 16V
back in '94, was to remove the relay that has a little speaker in the top that
is responsible for the door ajar/seat belt not fastened chime. I bet that same
device is used for the oil pressure audible alerts. I have always hated it when
I intentionally leave a car door open with the key in the ignition, and the
damn thing insistantly dings away at me. With all the electronic nannys
incorporated into new vehicles, I would surely be driven insane. At least with
the OBDII port allowing you to tap into the various computers in all new
vehicles, you can disable some or all of those electronic irritants.
Oh, and another thing I did first off, was remove the relay that prevents the
car from starting unless the clutch pedal is fully depressed. Long about the
time that" feature" was first introduced, I had a mechanic friend of mine tell
me that starting a car while the clutch is engaged puts over a hundred pounds
of pressure on the end of the crank shaft, thus putting a whole lot of pressure
against the thrust washer/bearing, while there is no oil pressure. Not a good
thing if a looking for long engine life. Which brings up another possibility
for explaining the issues this guy is experiencing. If the crank has developed
a bunch of end play, that could explain the noises, as well as the shavings
he's seeing. To check for this, first take a heavy soft faced mallet and smack
the crank damper a few times towards the transmission. Then use a large pry bar
between the damper and the timing cover and pry the crank away from the
transmission. If it moves more than about .1", that would indicate that the
crank shaft thrust bearing is worn, or completely destroyed. Just for
reference, the usual spec for crank end play when assembling a new engine, is
between
.04 - .08", depending on the specific engine.
The saga continues...~HollandOn Dec 26, 2015 07:58, "'Matthew Yip' via MK2-16v"
<[email protected]> wrote:
Agreed that there are multiple issues.
Most likely the noise from the drive belts is the insulator on the water pump
pulley that, in OE configuration, ran 2 different pulleys for 2 belts. The
pulleys were insulated from each other with a piece of cloth that wears over
time allowing the pulleys to wobble slightly and create all kinds of noise.
The other issue could be the crank pulley - either the harmonic balancer or the
pulley set. What often happens is that the harmonic balancer loosens up with
age and it starts to wobble which damages the crank nose.
With regards to the oil pressure buzzer - that buzzer sounds for both high and
low pressure. Unless you're running a gauge, it's a guess as to whether the
issue is high or low pressure. I don't remember if pulling the leads will
disable the buzzer but that's a good start - if I only could remember which
sensor is which...
The IM bearing is a sealed unit - I haven't had one fail but that doesn't mean
it hasn't happened. What colour are the shavings? If they're shiny, chances
are that they're metal but hopefully they're just plastic bits - from what I
recall, the lower front cover on my car had a hole in it from the harmonic
balancer. It wasn't detrimental nor even audible, just annoying.
On Friday, December 25, 2015 2:07 PM, "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:
You can use a mechanic's stethoscope, large screwdriver, large extension, or a
hose to isolate the source of the sounds.
From: "Holland Phillips" <[email protected]>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Friday, December 25, 2015 12:43:31 PM
Subject: Re: [mk2-16v] 1991 gti oil buzzer went off, engine started loping, and
screeching noises in engine bay
I was thinking the same thing. But with the symptoms he's reporting, the
possibilities are numerous. Since the engine starts and runs, I would be
looking at the rotating ancilliaries.
Do any of the pulleys wobble? Since it sounds like someone removed the A/C,
they may have messed up something with the v-belt system, depending on exactly
how they removed the A/C compressor. Like did they leave all the pulleys in
place, except the one on the compressor itself? As I recall, the A/C drive belt
is a wider, heavier duty belt than the rest. Then I wonder if the power
steering pump and water pump are turning freely. If one of those is frozen, or
partially locked up, that could be a problem. As I mentioned before, trying to
trouble shoot this via textual description is nigh on impossible. If any of one
of our more knowledgeable members is located geographically close to this guy,
maybe we could be of more help. ~HollandOn Dec 25, 2015 09:14, "Les Noriel"
<[email protected]> wrote:
One idea I thought might be part of the problem. Check that the timing belt
tensioner is good. When those bearings go bad, it can make a lot of noise
(buzzer?) It can also compromise timing which would make the motor run badly,
especially if the belt jumped a tooth. Just a thought LesOn Dec 25, 2015 8:27
AM, "Holland Phillips" <[email protected]> wrote:
Another thing you could do that may help to identify the source of the problem
is take a magnet, like one of those extendable magnetic retrievers, and see if
it picks up the metallic shavings you mentioned. If they're non magnetic, then
it may indicate that something is rubbing against the head. Just a
suggestion...~HollandOn Dec 24, 2015 23:29, "damac2004"
<[email protected]> wrote:
sorry this car has a 16v motor. i have been driving it for a couple months so
the noise and loping is definately different and made me want to shut the car
off.
no ac hardware installed i think somebody yanked it and did things the wrong
way.
i got a bently manual and assume i will have to break things down to check, i
guess i was just looking for some real world experience.
i just assumed something was getting jammed up in a way to put load on the
timing belt side to make it lope at idle. but that coupled with the oil light
and shavings near the im shaft makes me fear its the engine side. i can't
even move a pulley when tugging by hand right now.
i had a diesel vacuum pump sieze up once and stopped the im shaft dead. you
could hear the belt screeching, oil light went off and you could smell the
belt. that was the craziest thing i have ever seen, was using a rotary type
and the gear shaved grooves into the cover.
after i got it towed home last night i had to start it and move it onto the
driveway. started and ran as normal with no oil pressure light but i didn't
want to warm it up. wasn't loping but all the clattery racket/scratching can
be heard especially after stabbing the throttle and letting off.
On Thursday, December 24, 2015 at 10:35:01 PM UTC-8, stevenarguello wrote:
The 8v distributor runs off of the intermediate shaft along with the oil pump.
If it jumped a tooth or two the spark timing would be off. The 16v dizzy runs
off the cam. Does it have A/C?
On Dec 24, 2015, at 12:22 PM, damac2004 <[email protected]> wrote:
I'm new to these cars. I got one of these a few months ago and planned on
using it as a project to restore for fun. I have been driving it as is because
it worked. I do have to get it smogged and clean up some neglect but it was
getting me around ok with no funky noises.
Yesterday I came off the freeway and all of a sudden the high pressure oil
buzzer constantly started going off. I heard a racket of screeches and clunks
in the engine bay and the engine was loping near idle speed. So too many wierd
things at once to ignore, but I had to get off the road so i probably ran the
car about a minute after before turning it off. just putting my safety first
because of where i was vs. potentially blowing up a motor.
i had to work and came back to cold car. i have good fluids and started it up
for a bit. it ran with just the hint of stumbling although i don't know if
these cars typically do that while warming up. it wasn't loping the same. i
reved it and didn't get the light to come on but noticed the racket sounded
like its on the drive belt system. while engine was running only odd thing i
noticed is shavings i think near the intermediate shaft from the lower plastic
timing belt cover. couldn't quite tell if another pully was actually touching
it.
im i correct to assume that if something in vbelt system dragged all it would
do is slow down the timing belt, but that would still turn the im shaft without
interference?
is it possible a pulley wobbled its way into the im shaft and held it up? i
sure didn't smell smoking timing belt and will have to look closer. it has
power steering, alternator, water pump with 2 vbelts.
or maybe something bad happned inside engine with oil pump or the im bearings
and the pulley side is worn and walking out and hitting?--
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