You sure?  My friends '92 corrado didn't have one.  I've never seen one in a 
16v GTi/GLi.  

I've never seen one until '93 and even then it had to be a late '93...

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 24, 2016, at 6:59 PM, Holland Phillips <fasterthan...@pacbell.net> 
> wrote:
> 
> My '92 had an amber lindicator that was in the shape of an engine. I used to 
> check for codes using the method outlined in the Bentley, so I'm sure it was 
> there. Maybe I'm wrong about it looking like an engine, too much has happened 
> since the last time I worked on my car.
> 
> On Mar 24, 2016 17:29, 'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v <mk2-16v@googlegroups.com> 
> wrote:
> Holland,
> 
> There is no check engine light.  VW didn't add one until 1993, my corrado slc 
> had one...
> 
> Josh
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Mar 24, 2016, at 6:04 PM, damac2004 <damac2...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> 
> ok so ground showed no continuity to that sensor wire.  it does with pin 7 i 
> believe on the ecu connector,  so i guess i am good.  i kept getting confused 
> because people were talking about an insulated wire and im thinking a nasty 
> cable like for tv.  when looking these guys over as is, they don't seem 
> special looking to me.
> 
> also i looked over the car again and i do have 2 knock sensors.  they are on 
> the front of the block close to each, closer to cylinder #1.  they each 
> attach to a harness connector  that goes into the loom and to the ecu.  so if 
> i remember right people said 1.8 blocks don't have 2?  yet i couldn't fit the 
> larger im shaft gear into this block that mates to the oil pump it had the 
> smaller block off plate hole?  so still not sure what i have.  in included a 
> picture down below.  hopefully i won't need to care.
> 
> here is a link to video of my first cold startup.   for some reason it took 
> like 5 times to start like there was no gas, fuel pump was making noise.  
> then it started right up.  can anybody tell if it sounds ok?  i am now having 
> an issue with timing the car.  i tried cold and after a warmup cycle and i 
> cannot get the pointer to stay still with the light on?  it kind of lines up 
> with the diamond and then it will shoot off a little bit off one way or the 
> other.  if i go further either way from where it is now, when it shoots off 
> it tends to go in that direction more.  i tried connecting the lead near the 
> distributor cap and at the head.  it seems to like this spot the best but im 
> not sure how accurate it is.  im wondering what impact this could have on 
> smog if im a little off.  also not sure if this means my car is having 
> troubles or if my timing light is messed up.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GB9yXn61pS8
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 10:32:11 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
> I think that your loom is good, I wouldn’t mess with it anymore. The Bentley 
> shows a circle around the signal wire where that ground meets the O2 signal 
> wire instead of a splice and that’s what you have.  Maybe check to be sure 
> that there’s no continuity between the ground and the O2 signal spade 
> connector. 
> 
> 
> On Mar 24, 2016, at 10:48 AM, Holland Phillips <holland...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> The Motronic ECU does store codes. Since the OBD1 spec didn't go into effect 
> until '95, code readers don't work on these cars. Connecting two leads to the 
> proper positions of the connectors under the shifter boot and connecting a 
> momentary switch to the other ends of the two leads, by using the switch to 
> short the leads for a few seconds, the codes are shown by the check engine 
> light flashing in various sequences. The Bentley explains all this and has a 
> chart showing what the various codes indicate. I don't remember exactly where 
> in the Bentley this procedure is, but it's in there somewhere. 
> 
> ~Holland
> 
> On Mar 24, 2016 1:17 AM, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> sorry just to make sure we are on the same page.  you are saying the 02 
> sensor black connector is going into the loom to the ecu.  and the ground 
> wire attached to the firewall is loose and surrounding the 02 sensor wire 
> along the same path?  i am paranoid and want to see for myself and am tempted 
> to cut further upstream to see.
> 
> i thought i read about the codes and bought a cord on ebay to convert from a 
> little plug underneath the shifter boot i believe that goes to an obd reader? 
>  i will try it if i read right after i get the sucker going, had to rewire 
> the main power and grounds.  many wires have fallen to pieces just from 
> touching them.  scary stuff now that i look closer.
> 
> On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 12:40:03 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
> The picture looks just like what I thought it would, the signal wire is the 
> one with the connector, the one going to the ground is the shield. I think 
> that you're good to go. 
> I would have shown you my loom, but it's very different and I thought it'd 
> make things more confusing. 
> 
> Fire it up. 
> 
> One last thing, I'm pretty sure that your Motronic ecu has codes. I'm not 
> sure how easy they are to read or if they help at all. 
> 
> On Mar 24, 2016, at 1:29 AM, damac2004 <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i forgot to add this picture.  maybe i need to look closer but it looked like 
> the connector wire is exposed and touching that main ground leg.  is it 
> possible the connector has its own cover and is running inside inside the 
> ground run?  i can try and cut some back and look at it.  i was expecting a 
> special looking wire, my connector wire doesn't look special?
> 
> 
> 
> i don't really understand how to read the bently.  this is the only wire i 
> see connected in the 20 pages to the firewall ground on that side.  it 
> doesn't show a straight run to the control unit but it has a solid line 
> crossing into the shielded wire icon on the 02 sensor connected leg.  i just 
> assumed they were connected or else the ground wire from firewall side would 
> go nowhere?
> 
> 
> 
> is this a pretty common harness on other gas vw's of the same era?  i wish i 
> could see somebodies stock harness with pictures, maybe i can find one at 
> picknpull.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Wednesday, March 23, 2016 at 5:21:42 PM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
> So you bought a new 3wire O2 sensor? If so, the black is the signal not the 
> ground. (The sensor is grounded through the exhaust?) 
> After the orange connector the signal wire back to the ecu is a little 
> thicker because it's a coaxial cable, it has a braided shield around the 
> signal wire. This shield has a ground and I believe that's the one going to 
> the firewall. That's why they look like 2 wires fused into 1. 
> (I think, my loom is different.) If I'm way off, I hope someone will let him 
> and me know. 
> 
> There should be an extra female connector for the 2nd knock sensor, unless 
> they cut it off. 
> 
> 
> On Mar 23, 2016, at 6:30 PM, damac2004 <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> 
> hate to bug people but i'm just tidying things up with a new 02 sensor and 
> want to make sure before i start it up and time it.  i pulled the whole 
> harness that goes to the ecu just to make sure.  i do only have the 1 knock 
> sensor.  don't see any special shielded wiring.
> 
> the 02 harness side  has a black ground going to firewall that goes to the 
> ecu.  a small area is cleanly exposing wires and the 02 sensor signal wire 
> connector is fused to this ground leg.  no sign of solder or cuts, looks 
> original to me?
> 
> i also tried looking up my car in the bently and it matches a later gti 91 
> chasis according to them.  it shows the ground location over there on 
> firewall rather than the engine block.
> 
> i have the 2 white wires from 02 sensor going to stock connectors and their 
> colored wires into the ecu harness. 
> 
> bently shows the ground leg black wire and the 02 sensor connector black wire 
> making a left turn into that black ground wire.
> 
> so it seems it is wired correctly?   
> 
> i just don't understand how 02 sensors work, not sure if that black wire is a 
> ground wire on all car applications.
> 
> On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 1:24:08 PM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
>  The wire you’re touching looks like the O2 signal. In your case it looks 
> like the shield might have been pulled off and ran to ground. (That’s a 
> guess, could be like that from the factory) The red and yellowish (sorry, I’m 
> a little color blind) are the O2 heater. The 2 whites and the lead with the 
> electrical tape go to the sensor. 
> I think.
> 
> There’s only one mounting point for a knock sensor on the 1.8, the 2.0 has 2. 
> If you have 2 and they’re both mounted to the block then I’d say that the 
> block is 2.0. I know we’ve gone back and forth on this, but I had the exact 
> opposite happen to me my ’88 had a 2.0 (the PO didn’t know) I found out when 
> I discovered the second KS.
> 
> On Mar 19, 2016, at 3:20 PM, Holland Phillips <holland...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> As Steve mentioned, the O2 sensor signal wire is shielded, similar to a 
> coaxial cable. It's basically a regular insulated braided copper wire of 
> about 20 gauge, with a braided shield covering it.
> 
> ~Holland
> 
> On Mar 19, 2016 12:13, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> im pretty sure i have 2 knock sensors?  im attaching a picture of what i 
> uncovered from electrical tape.  looks like a brown wire covered with black 
> that goes to top connector from drivers side, its duct taped along i guess 
> stock loom.  i assumed ground at first but wonder if this could be the 02 
> sensor signal wire?
> 
> and just what i thought.  i have a black ground wire coming from firewall 
> gong to the loom.  but an area is all cut away with exposed wiring.  the wire 
> from outside of loom was wrapped into this exposed ground bundle WITH the 02 
> sensor signal wire???
> 
> this is incorrect right?  ground wire is no the same as signal wire for 02 
> sensor it should make an isolated run somewhere?
> 
> whats wierd is all the wires but the loose one outside of loom seem to be 
> fused together.  i can't detect solder and the wires seem to be attached 
> firmly inside the black cover.  i can't even pull them apart, i would have to 
> cut which makes me think it was stock because i don't see breaks further down 
> the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 10:29:29 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
> On a typical 1.8 CIS-E the O2 signal wire is shielded and green to an 
> insulated male spade connector and there are 2 white heater wires into a 
> duplex VW connector. I’m not sure how big of a deal the knock sensor issue 
> that you’re going to have is. Your Motronic ECU is going to want 2 knock 
> sensor signals, I think it uses one as a baseline reference and the other 
> adjusts the spark timing. The 1.8 block only accepts one knock sensor.
> 
> On Mar 19, 2016, at 11:31 AM, 'Matthew Yip' via MK2-16v 
> <mk2...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
> 
> This reminds me of a friend who adamantly stuck to the theory that VW and 
> Audi engines are the same because of the engine code. Instead of moving the 
> accessories, he installed the complete 1.8t from a VW into an Audi TT. 
> 
> At start-up, it fired immediately but idled at 2000 rpms. Why?  Because VW 
> had a 1" fitting underneath the manifold that Audi doesn't use. The moral is 
> to never assume and always check the obvious since the obvious isn't always 
> obvious <G>
> 
> - Matthew -
> 
> On Mar 19, 2016, at 11:03, Holland Phillips <holland...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Progress! That's awesome! I don't remember the wire colors anymore, but yes, 
> one of the wires to the O2 sensor is the heater wire. Hopefully, once you set 
> the timing, it will improve things. However, until you get the O2 sensor 
> hooked up correctly, it isn't going to run right. But at least you've 
> resolved a lot of your issues. I'm happy for you.
> 
> ~Holland
> 
> On Mar 19, 2016 01:38, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> well i capped off one hole with a bolt/washer and the other with a thick 
> plate and gasket.  turned the key once to hear the pump prime and then tried 
> to start the car and it started right up and idled a bit less than 900 rpm i 
> think.
> 
> wow do i feel stupid.  
> 
> i got various little things to fix after poking around but my next problem is 
> the cat/02 sensor.  i'm going to start fresh with my new cat and 02 sensor at 
> this point.  i assumed the wiring was ok but noticed some previous owner 
> electrical tape and there are numerous wires tied together into a bundle 
> thats hooking up to a ground on the passenger firewall.  this includes a 
> single wire that is zip tied to the outside of the loom coming from the 
> drivers side.  halfway it turns from black to brown with vw plastic 
> connectors.
> 
> seems a little goofy at face value to have a single wire shoot all the way 
> over there for ground right where all those wires meet. i have to look closer 
> but i think something is screwed up if im reading right the 2nd 02 sensor 
> connector is a heater wire NOT ground?  the other harness with 2 white wires 
> goes into the loom.
> 
> i have a feeling car isn't even getting a signal from 02 sensor so i need to 
> get that straight before installing new one.
> 
> i had the distributor at the old setups marks, i will have to time it 
> tomorrow i couldn't actually see the marks well when trying the timing light 
> in the dark tonight.  car runs and is revving out with the stock chip/cams, 
> etc. but i noticed right away when i stab the throttle and it comes off the 
> idle switch there was a slight gurgle and then it revs out but is reacting to 
> pedal.   i'm hoping it needs to be timed and that will help.  
> 
> On Wednesday, March 16, 2016 at 7:56:36 PM UTC-7, damac2004 wrote:
> oh boy i am feeling stupid and think i have found the smoking gun here.
> 
> is it possible that having 2 open holes on the back of the intake manifold 
> made the car act this way?
> 
> this is not a california chasis so no egr stuff.  when i pulled the euro 
> manifold one hole had a bolt stuck through it with rtv and another hole was 
> held by bolts and gasket.
> 
> when i was transferring everything over to the stock manifold i remember 
> poking down the hole with brake cleaner hose and hit what i thought was solid 
> wall on each.  at the time never seeing egr stuff assumed it maybe would be 
> drilled out for a car that needed that hardware.
> 
> i had filled the holes up with brake cleaner with that side up and don't 
> think i paid close enough attention so this whole time it was installed on 
> the car like that.
> 
> tonight as i went to transfer the old parts back on as my last hope effort i 
> noticed some leakage when spraying brake cleaner and a light bulb went off.  
> so with those holes up if i spray one hole it fills the other hole up.  if 
> you leave the manifold sit the level of fluid just sits there.  when i went 
> to tilt sideways one way nothing happened but leaking out the top.  when i 
> tilted the other way 2 of the runners leaked the fluid out.
> 
> i don't know these cars at all.  since the car wasn't running right i never 
> wanted to let it run long since it wasn't acting like a real car.  my mom was 
> watching and said i see some smoke and it sounds funny but of course i told 
> her its just stuff burning off and that it wasn't running right.  couldn't 
> really take a chance to look or feel closer.
> 
> i have seen people mention these cars can run crappy with vac leaks and they 
> don't run without the intake tubes attached?  i'm hoping this is what it was. 
>  going to make some block off plates and gasket to seal those 2 holes up 
> tight and then install all the old parts on it and hope like magic its back 
> to normal and then i can smog it.
> 
> On Tuesday, March 1, 2016 at 10:41:38 AM UTC-
> ...
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit 
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/8ea7b42c-985c-44a8-b854-d647b1b5a010%40googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit 
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/EFA044A5-4351-413D-AF8D-B9B33959D521%40yahoo.com.
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit 
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/ad33ee1d-b437-4828-b6ed-341513534646%40email.android.com.
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/86CCF470-5EDD-45A5-AE77-B974F3C727F9%40yahoo.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Reply via email to