Must be a Cali only thing then.  I've never seen one in any other car before 
late 1993

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> On Mar 25, 2016, at 9:51 AM, Holland Phillips <[email protected]> 
> wrote:
> 
> I know that my '92 GTI 16V had a lot of emissions hardware that was specific 
> to California models. I remember when I would have the car smogged, they 
> would poke around the engine compartment for 15 or 20 minutes just checking 
> that all the hardware was there. I've never understood why California in 
> particular is so concerned about hardware inspection, when emissions is all 
> about what comes out the tail pipe.
> 
> ~Holland
> 
>> On Mar 25, 2016 06:55, "Les Noriel" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> I was wondering if it was exclusively a california thing. My 90 Corrado had 
>> the connector underneath the shifter boot but I never really used it. 
>> On the other hand, I discovered in the Bentley, My 95 Jetta with the 2.0l 
>> motor had a small key underneath the rear seat. The key was inserted into 
>> the port in the console and with the ignition on, would provide me blink 
>> codes on the dashboard. 
>> 
>> Both were California cars when originally sold. 
>> 
>>> On Thu, Mar 24, 2016 at 10:37 PM, Holland Phillips 
>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> It's starting to sound like non California cars may not have what I've been 
>>> referring to as a check engine light. 
>>> My car was a California car from new.
>>> The best ground on any car is the negative battery post.
>>> The smell is very possibly the new cat, and the droning noise may be having 
>>> to do with the cat as well. You may want to check and see if the cat is 
>>> touching the heat shield that normally is between the cat and the floor of 
>>> the car.
>>> Until you get the basic timing sorted out, I wouldn't worry about the cold 
>>> start issue. There is a cold start valve which is mounted to the intake 
>>> manifold, on the tranny end of the manifold. But if the car only takes a 
>>> couple of tries to fire when fully cold, the valve is probably working.
>>> Sounds like you're on the home stretch, just double check the Bentley for 
>>> the exact basic timing procedure.
>>> You could try and get the car smogged, just find a place that promises free 
>>> retests if you fail. Most smog stations in California do.
>>> Hang in there, you've come a long way since your original post.
>>> 
>>> ~Holland
>>> 
>>>> On Mar 24, 2016 21:32, "damac2004" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> hmm, i see nothing in my cluster about this light or a seperate switch in 
>>>> the dash.  i see motronic has basic codes you can check with jumper and 
>>>> led with harness under shift boot.  i will check my car tomorrow for that 
>>>> and see what happens.
>>>> 
>>>> i tightened the distributor bolts and no go, timing light still jumps 
>>>> around.  i tried various spots on the spark plug wire no change.  i tried 
>>>> hooking up the timing light to the - post on coil to start like the bently 
>>>> talks about, this would illimunate light on my gun but it wouldn't flash, 
>>>> so i used the instructions for my gun and put it on the negative battery 
>>>> post?
>>>> 
>>>> i'm not sure what to do here.  i hate to spend all that $$$ on a new one 
>>>> for no reason.
>>>> 
>>>> i got antsy and took the car out for a hard drive and it was definately a 
>>>> different experience than before.  not sure if im crazy or if the cams, 
>>>> chip and intake could have made such a difference?  
>>>> 
>>>> now i have a cat on it and the car is much quiter walking around it at 
>>>> idle.  the engine bay specifically, and so much so when driving i thought 
>>>> the car died multiple times when coming to a stop.  to my ear i feel there 
>>>> is less crackling out the exhaust pipe, but it seems to me i hear and feel 
>>>> a new drone right under me when just coming off idle.  i would have called 
>>>> it a hesitation and gurgle but i noticed it isn't directly related to the 
>>>> throttle when pusing it to go.  on that front the car seems to react as 
>>>> good as ever without stumbling on the gas.  that drone seems to go away 
>>>> when revving it out, and will come back at times when letting off the 
>>>> throttle.  the car was always too loud for my liking when driving it but i 
>>>> don't really care at this point, i will get rid of it later anyway.
>>>> 
>>>> i only drove for like 20 minutes and when i came back the car stunk.  not 
>>>> like raw gas smell, i wonder if its the cat breaking in?  of course they 
>>>> mention nothing about it.
>>>> 
>>>> i am hoping i am on the home stretch here.  i am tempted to just take it 
>>>> into smog but i have to assume my timing isn't perfect and am afraid of 
>>>> failing and having to go back :( 
>>>> 
>>>> only issue i noticed again is i turned the car off and it restarted right 
>>>> away.  when i went out for the drive, maybe an hour after previously 
>>>> running the car had no life starting the first crank.  second crank it 
>>>> sounded like it stumbled at the end.  third crank it started and idled on 
>>>> its own.  so is it safe to assume i have a problem with "cold" starting?  
>>>> it didn't use to act like this, it always showed signs of life.
>>>> 
>>>>> On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 7:11:16 PM UTC-7, hollandphillips wrote:
>>>>> You're correct, there is no vacuum line attached to the ecu. But there is 
>>>>> definitely something that is supposed to be disconnected when setting 
>>>>> base timing. Since your chassis isn't a California car, there is probably 
>>>>> a lot of things that are different. Until the OBD2 spec came into effect 
>>>>> in, I think, '96, most new vehicles sold in the U.S. came in what was 
>>>>> termed "49 state"  versions, and California versions. Thanks CARB & EPA. 
>>>>> Now almost all vehicles are "world spec", since the EU has become as 
>>>>> emissions aware as the U.S. has been for decades. They've even gone 
>>>>> further with the introduction of pedestrian accident requirements for 
>>>>> front bumbers, which I think the U.S. has or will be adopting.
>>>>> 
>>>>> ~Holland
>>>>> 
>>>>> On Mar 24, 2016 18:53, "damac2004" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>> the 2.0 im shaft fit into my block but the matching big gear wouldn't fit 
>>>>> in the smaller hole on the block that mates with the oil pump so i still 
>>>>> don't understand whats going on with this, but if i pass smog i won't 
>>>>> care :)
>>>>> 
>>>>> unless i am missing something all i see for timing this car is to heat it 
>>>>> up with a fan cycle and go.  no disconnecting the cts or revving like 
>>>>> some others???  i don't have any vacuum line on my ecu either.
>>>>> 
>>>>> bently has a blurb that distributor bearings might be messed up if timing 
>>>>> wanders, ugh.  maybe i had the bolts too loose i will go out and try and 
>>>>> tighten them and see.
>>>>> 
>>>>> i see no engine light in my cluster either and the last smog guy i went 
>>>>> to was asking me where it was!!!  its a non california car and i won't be 
>>>>> going back to that guy.
>>>>> 
>>>>> On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 5:52:49 PM UTC-7, hollandphillips wrote:
>>>>> Two knock sensors means 2.0/9A block.
>>>>> On the timing issue, there is something that needs to be disconnected 
>>>>> prior to using a timing light. I can't remember what exactly it is, but I 
>>>>> think it's a vacuum line somewhere. Again, that information is in the 
>>>>> Bentley. Once the whatever is disconnected, the timing should be steady 
>>>>> when viewed with the timing light.
>>>>> The timing advance on Motronic cars is controlled by the ECU, which is 
>>>>> why initial setting of the timing requires disconnecting whatever it is 
>>>>> the Bentley tells you. They do connect a timing sensor to the number one 
>>>>> cylinder spark plug lead when running an emissions test in California. 
>>>>> Don't know if it's just for reference to the machine, or if they can 
>>>>> actually fail you if it's out of spec.
>>>>> 
>>>>> ~Holland
>>>>> 
>>>>> On Mar 24, 2016 17:04, "damac2004" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>> ok so ground showed no continuity to that sensor wire.  it does with pin 
>>>>> 7 i believe on the ecu connector,  so i guess i am good.  i kept getting 
>>>>> confused because people were talking about an insulated wire and im 
>>>>> thinking a nasty cable like for tv.  when looking these guys over as is, 
>>>>> they don't seem special looking to me.
>>>>> 
>>>>> also i looked over the car again and i do have 2 knock sensors.  they are 
>>>>> on the front of the block close to each, closer to cylinder #1.  they 
>>>>> each attach to a harness connector  that goes into the loom and to the 
>>>>> ecu.  so if i remember right people said 1.8 blocks don't have 2?  yet i 
>>>>> couldn't fit the larger im shaft gear into this block that mates to the 
>>>>> oil pump it had the smaller block off plate hole?  so still not sure what 
>>>>> i have.  in included a picture down below.  hopefully i won't need to 
>>>>> care.
>>>>> 
>>>>> here is a link to video of my first cold startup.   for some reason it 
>>>>> took like 5 times to start like there was no gas, fuel pump was making 
>>>>> noise.  then it started right up.  can anybody tell if it sounds ok?  i 
>>>>> am now having an issue with timing the car.  i tried cold and after a 
>>>>> warmup cycle and i cannot get the pointer to stay still with the light 
>>>>> on?  it kind of lines up with the diamond and then it will shoot off a 
>>>>> little bit off one way or the other.  if i go further either way from 
>>>>> where it is now, when it shoots off it tends to go in that direction 
>>>>> more.  i tried connecting the lead near the distributor cap and at the 
>>>>> head.  it seems to like this spot the best but im not sure how accurate 
>>>>> it is.  im wondering what impact this could have on smog if im a little 
>>>>> off.  also not sure if this means my car is having troubles or if my 
>>>>> timing light is messed up.
>>>>> 
>>>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GB9yXn61pS8
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 10:32:11 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
>>>>> I think that your loom is good, I wouldn’t mess with it anymore. The 
>>>>> Bentley shows a circle around the signal wire where that ground meets the 
>>>>> O2 signal wire instead of a splice and that’s what you have.  Maybe check 
>>>>> to be sure that there’s no continuity between the ground and the O2 
>>>>> signal spade connector. 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> On Mar 24, 2016, at 10:48 AM, Holland Phillips <[email protected]> 
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> The Motronic ECU does store codes. Since the OBD1 spec didn't go into 
>>>>> effect until '95, code readers don't work on these cars. Connecting two 
>>>>> leads to the proper positions of the connectors under the shifter boot 
>>>>> and connecting a momentary switch to the other ends of the two leads, by 
>>>>> using the switch to short the leads for a few seconds, the codes are 
>>>>> shown by the check engine light flashing in various sequences. The 
>>>>> Bentley explains all this and has a chart showing what the various codes 
>>>>> indicate. I don't remember exactly where in the Bentley this procedure 
>>>>> is, but it's in there somewhere. 
>>>>> 
>>>>> ~Holland
>>>>> 
>>>>> On Mar 24, 2016 1:17 AM, "damac2004" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>> sorry just to make sure we are on the same page.  you are saying the 02 
>>>>> sensor black connector is going into the loom to the ecu.  and the ground 
>>>>> wire attached to the firewall is loose and surrounding the 02 sensor wire 
>>>>> along the same path?  i am paranoid and want to see for myself and am 
>>>>> tempted to cut further upstream to see.
>>>>> 
>>>>> i thought i read about the codes and bought a cord on ebay to convert 
>>>>> from a little plug underneath the shifter boot i believe that goes to an 
>>>>> obd reader?  i will try it if i read right after i get the sucker going, 
>>>>> had to rewire the main power and grounds.  many wires have fallen to 
>>>>> pieces just from touching them.  scary stuff now that i look closer.
>>>>> 
>>>>> On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 12:40:03 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
>>>>> The picture looks just like what I thought it would, the signal wire is 
>>>>> the one with the connector, the one going to the ground is the shield. I 
>>>>> think that you're good to go. 
>>>>> I would have shown you my loom, but it's very different and I thought 
>>>>> it'd make things more confusing. 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Fire it up. 
>>>>> 
>>>>> One last thing, I'm pretty sure that your Motronic ecu has codes. I'm not 
>>>>> sure how easy they are to read or if they help at all. 
>>>>> 
>>>>> On Mar 24, 2016, at 1:29 AM, damac2004 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> i forgot to add this picture.  maybe i need to look closer but it looked 
>>>>> like the connector wire is exposed and touching that main ground leg.  is 
>>>>> it possible the connector has its own cover and is running inside inside 
>>>>> the ground run?  i can try and cut some back and look at it.  i was 
>>>>> expecting a special looking wire, my connector wire doesn't look special?
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> i don't really understand how to read the bently.  this is the only wire 
>>>>> i see connected in the 20 pages to the firewall ground on that side.  it 
>>>>> doesn't show a straight run to the control unit but it has a solid line 
>>>>> crossing into the shielded wire icon on the 02 sensor connected leg.  i 
>>>>> just assumed they were connected or else the ground wire from firewall 
>>>>> side would go nowhere?
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> is this a pretty common harness on other gas vw's of the same era?  i 
>>>>> wish i could see somebodies stock harness with pictures, maybe i can find 
>>>>> one at picknpull.
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> ...
>>>> 
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