----- Forwarded message from
Alexandre Silva de Paula
Date: Wed,
24 Oct 2012 18:29:01 -0400
From: Alexandre Silva de Paula
Reply-To: Alexandre Silva de Paula
Subject: Re: [Spam] Re: choosing a digital
camera for collecting landmark data
To:
morphmet@morphometrics.org
----- Forwarded message from "Novack-Gottshall, Philip M."
Date:
Tue, 23 Oct 2012 12:24:15 -0400
From: "Novack-Gottshall, Philip M."
Reply-To:
"Novack-Gottshall, Philip M."
Subject:
Re: choosing a digital camera for collecting landmark data
To: "sfin...@tcd.ie"
I work with fossil invertebrates, which tend
to be a bit easier to photograph and digitize because they're typically somewhat
flattened and two-dimensional. But hopefully this will be useful for your
specimens.
In my experience, any decent camera does fine. I've listed the
various equipment I've used on my website: http://www1.ben.edu/faculty/pnovack-gottshall/PaleoDIMPL.html
Overall,
the most important factors are to (1) use a scale bar, (2) understand your
camera settings (especially the aperture-priority setting), and (3) use a
camera/copy stand to keep your camera steady.
Use of a scale bar is
always critical; without it, you're very limited in the kinds of analyses you
can do (although some shape-based morphometrics are OK). But given it is so easy
to include one in every photograph, there's no reason not to. Just make sure
that the scale bar is positioned close to you specimen (i.e., not along the
border of your field of view, where you can get aberations) and in the same
vertical plane as your specimen (to prevent parallax-focus issues). You also
want to make sure the scale bar is in focus.
I often use a macro lens to
get get large images of small specimens. In these lenses, the focal depth is
dramatically reduced. (This is true for regular lenses, too.) The key in both is
to use the aperture-priority setting (sometimes with different names in
different camera models.) The aperture setting (sometimes called an f-stop of
f-number) allows you to change the focal depth of your images. (Large f-numbers,
such as f/16 use a very small aperture but allow a "deep" field of view; small
f-numbers, such as f/2 have larger apertures and shallow fields of view.) This
is important so that parts of your specimen close to you are as much in focus as
parts away from you. The downside of a large f-number is that it takes more time
for your camera to compensate for the reduced light passing through the
aperture, which means the shot takes longer. If you are holding the camera by
hand, it's essentially impossible to get a well focused image because of the
camera shake. So a camera/photo stand is critical. (Another downside is that
some lenses produce less focused images at extreme f-numbers, so you'll need to
play with your camera and set-up to find the optimal settings to get sharp
images with "deep" fields of view.)
Finally, although a photostand
is large and cumbersome (and not something you'd expect to travel with), it is
very helpful for trying different settings, playing with different lighting
scenarios (another important factor that can be critical in making a "flat"
image of a non-flat specimen look non-flat), and especially for getting sharp
focus (whether using large f-numbers of not.) (Lighting is also important when
playing with f-numbers because a brightly lit specimen can be blanched by
too-much lighting, even if relatively dim, if the aperture is open for a few
seconds.) Most museums have photostands available if you ask. They're a critical
tool if you are serious about photographing specimens.
(As an aside, most
copystands use incandescent lighting, which can get incredibly hot when turned
on for a batch of specimens! The only copystand I've seen that uses
non-incandescents is a rather pricey model by Bencher that uses flourescent, but
is well worth the price, in my opinion. Although it's not a traveling model by
any stretch.)
Finally, depending on the f-numbers you use, you might
consider using a remote switch (or a computer program that speaks to the
camera), which can allow you to "click" the camera to take the picture from a
distance, further reducing the camera shake on the camera which is the enemy of
a sharp focus.
Best wishes,
Phil
----- Forwarded message from Sive Finlay
Date:
Sun, 21 Oct 2012 10:17:26 -0400
From: Sive Finlay
Reply-To: Sive
Finlay
Subject: choosing
a digital camera for collecting landmark data
To: morphmet@morphometrics.org
Sive Finlay
IRC EMBARK Initiative Postgraduate Scholar
-----
End forwarded message -------
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Phil Novack-Gottshall
Assistant Professor
Department of Biological Sciences
Benedictine University
5700 College Road
Lisle, IL 60532
pnovack-gottsh...@ben.edu
Phone: 630-829-6514
Fax: 630-829-6547
Office: 332 Birck Hall
Lab: 107 Birck Hall
http://www1.ben.edu/faculty/pnovack-gottshall
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
----- End forwarded message -----
-----
End forwarded message
-----
I think you will find one appropriate
microscope on page http://www.dinolite.com/ I have one
AM4013ZT4 Dino-Lite Pro with one Suporte DinoLite MS-35B Stand Rack. They work
fine. You will find an appropriate microscope.
Best
wishes,
Alexandre.
On Oct 24,
2012, at 6:57 PM, morphmet_modera...@morphometrics.org
wrote:
Dear Sive,
Dear all,
I'm starting a new PhD project
studying convergent evolution in Malagasy tenrecs (Tenrecidae). I want to
compare morphological similarities among the skulls and limbs of tenrecs and
convergent species (moles, shrews, hedgehogs etc.)
I'd be very
grateful for advice on which cameras and/or lighting set up would be suitable
for photographing museum specimens for later analysis using landmark
data.
I'll be travelling to different museums so ideally I would like
equipment which is easily portable and can be re-assembled to create consistent
photographing conditions.
Any tips or advice on which
equipment might be suitable would be much
appreciated.
Thanks
Sive
Finlay
sfin...@tcd.ie--
Macroecology and Macroevolution Research Group
Zoology building
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