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----- Forwarded message from Rich
Strauss
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012
15:45:30 -0400
From: Rich Strauss
Reply-To: Rich Strauss
Subject: Re: choosing a
digital camera for collecting landmark data
To:
morphmet@morphometrics.org
Rich Strauss
At 02:57 PM 10/25/2012, you wrote:
----- Forwarded message from
Alexandre Silva de Paula -----
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 18:29:01 -0400
From: Alexandre Silva de Paula
Reply-To: Alexandre Silva de Paula
Subject: Re: [Spam] Re: choosing a digital camera for collecting landmark
data
To: morphmet@morphometrics.org
Dear Sive,
I think you will find one appropriate microscope on page
http://www.dinolite.com/ I have
one AM4013ZT4 Dino-Lite Pro with one Suporte DinoLite MS-35B Stand Rack.
They work fine. You will find an appropriate microscope.
Best wishes,
Alexandre.
On Oct 24, 2012, at 6:57 PM,
morphmet_modera...@morphometrics.org wrote:
----- Forwarded message from "Novack-Gottshall, Philip M."
-----
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 12:24:15 -0400
From: "Novack-Gottshall, Philip M."
Reply-To: "Novack-Gottshall, Philip M."
Subject: Re: choosing a digital camera for collecting landmark data
To: "sfin...@tcd.ie"
Dear Sive,
I work with fossil invertebrates, which tend to be a bit easier to
photograph and digitize because they're typically somewhat flattened and
two-dimensional. But hopefully this will be useful for your
specimens.
In my experience, any decent camera does fine. I've listed the various
equipment I've used on my website:
http://www1.ben.edu/faculty/pnovack-gottshall/PaleoDIMPL.html
Overall, the most important factors are to (1) use a scale bar, (2)
understand your camera settings (especially the aperture-priority
setting), and (3) use a camera/copy stand to keep your camera
steady.
Use of a scale bar is always critical; without it, you're very limited in
the kinds of analyses you can do (although some shape-based morphometrics
are OK). But given it is so easy to include one in every photograph,
there's no reason not to. Just make sure that the scale bar is positioned
close to you specimen (i.e., not along the border of your field of view,
where you can get aberations) and in the same vertical plane as your
specimen (to prevent parallax-focus issues). You also want to make sure
the scale bar is in focus.
I often use a macro lens to get get large images of small specimens. In
these lenses, the focal depth is dramatically reduced. (This is true for
regular lenses, too.) The key in both is to use the aperture-priority
setting (sometimes with different names in different camera models.) The
aperture setting (sometimes called an f-stop of f-number) allows you to
change the focal depth of your images. (Large f-numbers, such as f/16 use
a very small aperture but allow a "deep" field of view; small
f-numbers, such as f/2 have larger apertures and shallow fields of view.)
This is important so that parts of your specimen close to you are as much
in focus as parts away from you. The downside of a large f-number is that
it takes more time for your camera to compensate for the reduced light
passing through the aperture, which means the shot takes longer. If you
are holding the camera by hand, it's essentially impossible to get a well
focused image because of the camera shake. So a camera/photo stand is
critical. (Another downside is that some lenses produce less focused
images at extreme f-numbers, so you'll need to play with your camera and
set-up to find the optimal settings to get sharp images with
"deep" fields of view.)
Finally, although a photostand is large and cumbersome (and not something
you'd expect to travel with), it is very helpful for trying different
settings, playing with different lighting scenarios (another important
factor that can be critical in making a "flat" image of a
non-flat specimen look non-flat), and especially for getting sharp focus
(whether using large f-numbers of not.) (Lighting is also important when
playing with f-numbers because a brightly lit specimen can be blanched by
too-much lighting, even if relatively dim, if the aperture is open for a
few seconds.) Most museums have photostands available if you ask. They're
a critical tool if you are serious about photographing
specimens.
(As an aside, most copystands use incandescent lighting, which can get
incredibly hot when turned on for a batch of specimens! The only
copystand I've seen that uses non-incandescents is a rather pricey model
by Bencher that uses flourescent, but is well worth the price, in my
opinion. Although it's not a traveling model by any stretch.)
Finally, depending on the f-numbers you use, you might consider using a
remote switch (or a computer program that speaks to the camera), which
can allow you to "click" the camera to take the picture from a
distance, further reducing the camera shake on the camera which is the
enemy of a sharp focus.
Best wishes,
Phil
On 10/23/2012 12:27 AM,
morphmet_modera...@morphometrics.org wrote:
----- Forwarded message from Sive Finlay -----
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 10:17:26 -0400
From: Sive Finlay
Reply-To: Sive Finlay
Subject: choosing a digital camera for collecting landmark data
To:
morphmet@morphometrics.org
Dear all,
I'm starting a new PhD project studying convergent evolution in Malagasy
tenrecs (Tenrecidae). I want to compare morphological similarities among
the skulls and limbs of tenrecs and convergent species (moles, shrews,
hedgehogs etc.)
I'd be very grateful for advice on which cameras and/or lighting set up
would be suitable for photographing museum specimens for later analysis
using landmark data.
I'll be travelling to different museums so ideally I would like equipment
which is easily portable and can be re-assembled to create consistent
photographing conditions.
Any tips or advice on which equipment might be suitable would be much
appreciated.
Thanks
Sive Finlay
sfin...@tcd.ie
--
Sive Finlay
IRC EMBARK Initiative Postgraduate Scholar
Macroecology and Macroevolution Research Group
Zoology building
School of Natural Sciences
Trinity College Dublin
sfin...@tcd.ie
http://www.tcd.ie/Zoology/research/ncooper/people.php
----- End forwarded message -----
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Phil Novack-Gottshall
Assistant Professor
Department of Biological Sciences
Benedictine University
5700 College Road
Lisle, IL 60532
pnovack-gottsh...@ben.edu
Phone: 630-829-6514
Fax: 630-829-6547
Office: 332 Birck Hall
Lab: 107 Birck Hall
http://www1.ben.edu/faculty/pnovack-gottshall
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
----- End forwarded message -----
----- End forwarded message -----
Dr. Richard E.
Strauss
(806) 742-2719 (voice)
Professor, Biological
Sciences
(806) 742-2963 (fax)
Texas Tech
University
rich.stra...@ttu.edu
Lubbock, TX 79409-3131
<
http://www.faculty.biol.ttu.edu/Strauss/Strauss.html>
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----- End forwarded message
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In addition to the desirable camera characters listed by others, I think
that it's important always to check carefully for lens distortion by
taking a photo of high-quality graph paper and checking for straight
lines (numerically by digitizing grid points). I've used several
different kinds of cameras and lenses, and have found that distortion
near the edges of the field can be quite significant. I also found
an Olympus macro lens to have unacceptable distortion in one small area
just to the left of the center of the field.
- choosing a digital camera for collecting landmark data morphmet_moderator
- Re: choosing a digital camera for collecting landm... morphmet_moderator
- Re: choosing a digital camera for collecting landm... morphmet_moderator
- Re: choosing a digital camera for collecting landm... morphmet_moderator
- Re: choosing a digital camera for collecting landm... morphmet_moderator
- Re: choosing a digital camera for collecting landm... morphmet_moderator
- Re: choosing a digital camera for collecting landm... morphmet_moderator
- Re: choosing a digital camera for collecting landm... morphmet_moderator
- Re: choosing a digital camera for collecting landm... morphmet_moderator