Thanks Ira, but I am afraid to dammage the spacer that way.
May be a hot air desolderstation will be a solution, but I haven't and I
never worked with such a tool... 

eric

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On
Behalf Of Instrument Resources of America
Sent: maandag 5 september 2011 23:30
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Soldering the wire leads on a IN-14

Suggestion!!  If you can carefully break out the remaining glass that
surrounds the pins, then you will have no problem removing the pins from 
the board, one at a time.    Ira

On 9/5/2011 1:56 PM, Tidak Ada wrote:
> I have to replace a ZM1005 in a (vintage) Tekelec Airtronic DPM. The 
> first problem is to desolder the broken tube (14 pins in a plated 
> throug print and a spacer between tube and print) and thereafter how 
> to solder the new tube properly Anyhow, the manufacturer did not worry 
> to solder the tube. No flying leads, but pins !!
>
> eric
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] 
> On Behalf Of chuck richards
> Sent: maandag 5 september 2011 22:38
> To: [email protected]; [email protected]
> Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Soldering the wire leads on a IN-14
>
> One thing I have done a few times to various wire-leaded nixies, is to 
> solder the ends of the leads to a 14-pin DIP header plug.
>
> That way, you end up with a way to plug the tube into a solderless 
> breadboard, or into an ic socket.
>
> I did that with some nice chinese nixies.  I left the leads
> full-length (about 1.5 inches).   I insulated each one
> and soldered the ends to the DIP header plug.  Now those chinese tubes 
> have a nice socket!
>
> Chuck
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>>
>> ---- Original Message ----
>> From: [email protected]
>> To: [email protected]
>> Subject: RE: [neonixie-l] Re: Soldering the wire leads on a IN-14
>> Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 11:47:52 -0700 (PDT)
>>
>>> Good question.
>>>
>>> The failure mechanism is certainly there. In thermionic valves
>> 'dumet'
>>> glass to metal seals are used to match the expansion coefficient of 
>>> the glass to that of the wire. I am not sure if anything similar is 
>>> used for nixies that run much cooler. Anyone knows what the wire
>> leads
>>> are made of?
>>>
>>> In any case, if in doubt you can attach a small clamp (like a croc
>>> clip) to sink heat away from the glass-metal seal.
>>>
>>> Alex
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sep 5, 9:38 pm, Adam Jacobs<[email protected]>  wrote:
>>>> I've always soldered the leads of IN-14's, never gave it much
>> consideration.
>>>> Never had a problem. I think that the thing you want to avoid is
>> soldering
>>>> the nixies which need sockets. IN-8's, IN-12's, IN-18's, that kind
>> of thing.
>>>> The ones with flying leads are _designed_ to be soldered.
>>>>
>>>> -Adam
>>>>
>>>> On Mon, Sep 5, 2011 at 11:19 AM, Ryan McDonald
>> <[email protected]>wrote:
>>>>> I've heard that soldering the leads on IN-14's can cause
>> premature
>>>>> seal failure.  I've also heard that staying at least 5mm from
>> the
>>>>> glass largely mitigates this problem.  Can anyone make any 
>>>>> recommendations concerning the soldering (or makeshift
>> socketing) of
>>>>> IN-14's?
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>
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