Hmmm, looks better as my 25 year old fellow solder sucker. I will see I can
get them here.
The pneumatic tools make me jelous...



eric

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On
Behalf Of Instrument Resources of America
Sent: dinsdag 6 september 2011 5:06
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Soldering the wire leads on a IN-14

Have you ever used a solder sucker a.k.a. soldapullt, made by the Edsyn 
company????  Look at them here      
http://www.edsyn.com/?gclid=CNDMsbHRh6sCFVqH5godvAzg5w        Ira

On 9/5/2011 2:53 PM, Tidak Ada wrote:
> Thanks Ira, but I am afraid to dammage the spacer that way.
> May be a hot air desolderstation will be a solution, but I haven't and 
> I never worked with such a tool...
>
> eric
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] 
> On Behalf Of Instrument Resources of America
> Sent: maandag 5 september 2011 23:30
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Soldering the wire leads on a IN-14
>
> Suggestion!!  If you can carefully break out the remaining glass that 
> surrounds the pins, then you will have no problem removing the pins from
> the board, one at a time.    Ira
>
> On 9/5/2011 1:56 PM, Tidak Ada wrote:
>> I have to replace a ZM1005 in a (vintage) Tekelec Airtronic DPM. The 
>> first problem is to desolder the broken tube (14 pins in a plated 
>> throug print and a spacer between tube and print) and thereafter how 
>> to solder the new tube properly Anyhow, the manufacturer did not 
>> worry to solder the tube. No flying leads, but pins !!
>>
>> eric
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: [email protected] 
>> [mailto:[email protected]]
>> On Behalf Of chuck richards
>> Sent: maandag 5 september 2011 22:38
>> To: [email protected]; [email protected]
>> Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Soldering the wire leads on a IN-14
>>
>> One thing I have done a few times to various wire-leaded nixies, is 
>> to solder the ends of the leads to a 14-pin DIP header plug.
>>
>> That way, you end up with a way to plug the tube into a solderless 
>> breadboard, or into an ic socket.
>>
>> I did that with some nice chinese nixies.  I left the leads
>> full-length (about 1.5 inches).   I insulated each one
>> and soldered the ends to the DIP header plug.  Now those chinese 
>> tubes have a nice socket!
>>
>> Chuck
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> ---- Original Message ----
>>> From: [email protected]
>>> To: [email protected]
>>> Subject: RE: [neonixie-l] Re: Soldering the wire leads on a IN-14
>>> Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 11:47:52 -0700 (PDT)
>>>
>>>> Good question.
>>>>
>>>> The failure mechanism is certainly there. In thermionic valves
>>> 'dumet'
>>>> glass to metal seals are used to match the expansion coefficient of 
>>>> the glass to that of the wire. I am not sure if anything similar is 
>>>> used for nixies that run much cooler. Anyone knows what the wire
>>> leads
>>>> are made of?
>>>>
>>>> In any case, if in doubt you can attach a small clamp (like a croc
>>>> clip) to sink heat away from the glass-metal seal.
>>>>
>>>> Alex
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Sep 5, 9:38 pm, Adam Jacobs<[email protected]>   wrote:
>>>>> I've always soldered the leads of IN-14's, never gave it much
>>> consideration.
>>>>> Never had a problem. I think that the thing you want to avoid is
>>> soldering
>>>>> the nixies which need sockets. IN-8's, IN-12's, IN-18's, that kind
>>> of thing.
>>>>> The ones with flying leads are _designed_ to be soldered.
>>>>>
>>>>> -Adam
>>>>>
>>>>> On Mon, Sep 5, 2011 at 11:19 AM, Ryan McDonald
>>> <[email protected]>wrote:
>>>>>> I've heard that soldering the leads on IN-14's can cause
>>> premature
>>>>>> seal failure.  I've also heard that staying at least 5mm from
>>> the
>>>>>> glass largely mitigates this problem.  Can anyone make any 
>>>>>> recommendations concerning the soldering (or makeshift
>>> socketing) of
>>>>>> IN-14's?
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