-Set your display as dim as possible and still remain 'attractive' (which
will be different to the camera than to the eye)
-Get some lights on dimmers. At least two to eliminate shadows. I use 75W
halogen par 30s on individual dimmers.
-Set your your shutter speed to < your display's refresh speed to eliminate
flicker (if you are muxing).
-Set your ISO and fstop for max depth of field vs. acceptable grain vs the
required shutter speed.
-You will probably find yourself shooting way less than 1/30th sec, so a
tripod is a must.
-Use a remote trigger to eliminate vibration.
-You'll need to experiment around with ambient light vs. your display's
light.
-Yes, use bracketing and HDR software if you have them available to you.

On Tue, Oct 25, 2011 at 2:06 PM, Adam Jacobs <[email protected]> wrote:

> Have you considered taking the shot in HDR? Might make the  whole thing a
> lot simpler.
> take a 3 shot bracket (-2,0,+2) and see what you come up with in
> photomatix. I know it's cheating, but I think you're just looking for
> results. I always do my HDR work with a $30 A560 powershot.
>
> Otherwise, David is absolutely correct. First figure out the exposure for
> the glowing component, then "make" the lighting for the rest of the room
> correct. You can try pointing desklamps via homemade reflectors or whatever
> you can rig up yourself. It doesn't have to be studio quality strobes.
> Alternately, you can try taking the problem outside. If I don't have a
> studio full of lighting equipment, I'll wait until the lighting is good
> outdoors and take the subject (or model) outside. This reduces your
> equipment needs down to just key lighting. In the case of a VFD/nixie you
> won't want any key lighting.
>
> Have you tried making a homemade lightbox? That might be an option too,
> depending on exactly what you are photographing and the final image you are
> trying to create.
>
> -Adam AJ9D
>
> On 10/25/2011 10:59 AM, David Forbes wrote:
>
>> On 10/25/11 10:24 AM, Nick wrote:
>>
>>> I'm trying to get good, consistent, photographs of a VFD display
>>> (single tube) and have having trouble with getting the colours right&
>>> decent detail - this is when the tube is lit (all segments).
>>>
>>> Anyone done this with good success and care to share settings/
>>> technique etc.?
>>>
>>> Nick
>>>
>>>
>> Nick,
>>
>> I just spent some large amount of time with professional photographers
>> working with both my Nixie watch and my LED video coat. They took hours and
>> hundreds of pictures to get a couple good shots. I watched their methods.
>>
>> The tube display elements tend to be a lot brighter than the camera's
>> exposure sensor expects, so you have to use manual exposure setting and dial
>> it a couple F-stops darker than the meter thinks is correct. Take test
>> photos and adjust as needed until you're happy with the result.
>>
>> Once you get the glowing parts correct, then you can start to work on the
>> background lighting. If you're using manual camera settings, then the
>> background light changes shouldn't affect the glowing bits' exposure.
>>
>> Diffused lighting is very helpful to get the background right. That can be
>> hard to achieve indoors, but it's possible with several lights pointed at
>> the light-colored room walls and ceiling. Direct lighting is usually
>> unhelpful. The guy who took photos for PopSci used a light on each side and
>> one above me, but he had expensive lights with very tight beam control.
>>
>> As far as the color goes, blue-green is the most difficult to get right
>> due to the extremely nonlinear color response of the human eyeball and the
>> nature of RGB color sensors used in cameras. You'll have to take several
>> photos with different white balance settings and see which comes out looking
>> the best. And there's always post-production software (Photoshop).
>>
>>
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