Dear Dalibor,
Photolitography devices are original pieces. It was used for polish
industrial nixies, but rather for laboratory scale. When prototypes were
good, manufacturing go to Dolam, Wroclaw. I suppose that there were
similiar devices, but bigger.
I used hydrochloric acid with perhydrol H2O2 and pure water. I'm going
to try with molybdenum foil and cupric foil for another parts, not for
nixies.
I'm very tired now. That's why I must go to sleep. I promise you
answer good as quick as possible.
Alek
W dniu 2012-09-29 09:56, Dalibor Farný pisze:
Wooow!
Alek, this is really outstanding result! Could I ask You what etching
chemical did You use? FeCl3? And how did You agitated the etching
process, I just immersed the metal into etching solution.. some kind
of spray tank is the best way.. did You heat the etching solution?
So the photolitography devices are original pieces? Industry made
nixie's metal parts were made using this?
I will send You 0.1mm stanless steel sheet to do another test if You
want, just send me your address to my email.
Could You please send a photo of assembled device?
Sorry for so many demands :-)
Dalibor Farný
http://dalibor.farny.cz
sent from Samsung Galaxy Pad
Dne 28.9.2012 22:06 "Alek onet" <[email protected]
<mailto:[email protected]>> napsal(a):
"accelerated" by Dalibor I tried my photolitography devices. It's
very good, even using first time! It isn't simple technology but I'm
very glad. In the second picture you have anode of nixie tube
prepared from template of polish tube type LC513. Unfortunatelly I
had old
photosensitive lacquer and thick metal plate (0.2 mm).
www.tubedevices.com/alek/pwl/lc1d/fotolito.jpg
<http://www.tubedevices.com/alek/pwl/lc1d/fotolito.jpg>
www.tubedevices.com/alek/pwl/lc1d/fotolito1.jpg
<http://www.tubedevices.com/alek/pwl/lc1d/fotolito1.jpg>
Best regards
Alek
it is not so easy, the total surface of each digit should
be constant to achieve constant current and constant
brightness of each digit (else You will have to struggle
with resistors on cathodes..). Bigger number = higher
current..
While this is true, it isn't an absolute. Existing nixies
have different currents for different digits (particularlay
"1"). Since they're more-or-less constant
voltage devices, the anode resistor tends to even out the
different current draws. Running nixies from higher voltages
with larger anode resistors
helps with this (at the cost of efficiency). Some designs
actually use current regulation instead of anode resistors,
and these will tend to overdrive
the smaller digits slightly.
That said, it would be simple enough to write code to adjust
the digit stroke thicknesses to achieve matching total areas.
Note that in some nixies,
the "1" digit is made with a double stroke to help with this.
And I also like the retro look of original digits ;-)
That is a perfectly valid reason. If I were going to clone a
nixie, I'd choose the CD-66 with its particularly nice digit
shapes.
However, if I'm making my own nixies, I'd be interested in
making them visibly distinct from existing ones. If I want a
CD-66, I
can just go buy one (unless I want a CD-66 with 30mm digits).
If I want a nixie with Böcklin or Klingon digits, I'll have
to make
my own.
There's also a mechanical consideration - thicker digits will
be more rigid and stable, and should survive longer. However,
this thickness can be in material thickness or stroke width.
Once I have working tube (as close as possible to
original) I can play and change things inside..
Absolutely. Coming up with digit shapes is likely not the
most difficult problem in making nixies.
Have You made something working with mentioned digit graphics?
Not as of yet. My original plan was to photoetch them, but I
just heard from someone who's making custom variable
capacitor plates, and has access to a water jet cutter.
I've been pricing the little ceramic rings used as insulating
digit separators, and they're expensive, so now I'm thinking
of glass and mica as alternatives.
- John
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