Hello Dylan, Do You have any tips for seed beads thin enough? It should be 1mm, I found some 2mm, but this would make a potencial in the nixie different, so the breakdown voltage could be different for each digit. I read in a "Weston:cold cathode glow discharge tubes" that it should be 1mm.
As John wrote, I found a supplier in Germany with nice 1mm alumina spacers, but one piece would cost around 3 EUR :-) little expensive.. Dalibor Farný http://dalibor.farny.cz sent from Samsung Galaxy Pad Dne 30.9.2012 4:33 "dylan roelofs" <doktorb...@gmail.com> napsal(a): > Hey again John, > Just get some little 'seed' beads from the bead store for spacers. > If you've got ultrasound, I recommend it- there can be a little > refractory sludge in 'em from the production. > I made a few 'crackle' tubes using black seed beads and neon about 10 > years back...really cool effect. > > -Dylan > > > > On Friday, September 28, 2012 7:09:57 AM UTC-7, jrehwin wrote: >> >> > it is not so easy, the total surface of each digit should be constant >> to achieve constant current and constant brightness of each digit (else You >> will have to struggle with resistors on cathodes..). Bigger number = higher >> current.. >> >> While this is true, it isn't an absolute. Existing nixies have different >> currents for different digits (particularlay "1"). Since they're >> more-or-less constant >> voltage devices, the anode resistor tends to even out the different >> current draws. Running nixies from higher voltages with larger anode >> resistors >> helps with this (at the cost of efficiency). Some designs actually use >> current regulation instead of anode resistors, and these will tend to >> overdrive >> the smaller digits slightly. >> >> That said, it would be simple enough to write code to adjust the digit >> stroke thicknesses to achieve matching total areas. Note that in some >> nixies, >> the "1" digit is made with a double stroke to help with this. >> >> > And I also like the retro look of original digits ;-) >> >> That is a perfectly valid reason. If I were going to clone a nixie, I'd >> choose the CD-66 with its particularly nice digit shapes. >> >> However, if I'm making my own nixies, I'd be interested in making them >> visibly distinct from existing ones. If I want a CD-66, I >> can just go buy one (unless I want a CD-66 with 30mm digits). If I want >> a nixie with Böcklin or Klingon digits, I'll have to make >> my own. >> >> There's also a mechanical consideration - thicker digits will be more >> rigid and stable, and should survive longer. However, >> this thickness can be in material thickness or stroke width. >> >> > Once I have working tube (as close as possible to original) I can play >> and change things inside.. >> >> Absolutely. Coming up with digit shapes is likely not the most difficult >> problem in making nixies. >> >> > Have You made something working with mentioned digit graphics? >> >> Not as of yet. My original plan was to photoetch them, but I just heard >> from someone who's making custom variable >> capacitor plates, and has access to a water jet cutter. >> >> I've been pricing the little ceramic rings used as insulating digit >> separators, and they're expensive, so now I'm thinking >> of glass and mica as alternatives. >> >> - John >> >> -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "neonixie-l" group. > To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > To view this discussion on the web, visit > https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/xOPvGP4rlcAJ. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. > > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
