Nick

I switched to using toner on press-n-peel (pnp) rather than photo, magazine 
or other glossy papers.  I only make minor trace repairs with a permanent 
marker using pnp, compared to previous papers that I used.  I've used a 
couple of different laser printers and all work great.  I select 1,200dpi 
on the laser printer as well as making the toner a bit darker as I've found 
it gives better results. If you use an iron make sure to pay special 
attention to the sides and corners of boards that are bigger than a couple 
of centimeters.  It can take a long time for the toner to melt and bond 
properly.  Easily 5 minutes for larger boards which are not continuously 
heated under the heel of the iron. I've recently bought a small, cheap tee 
shirt press which gives even heat and pressure.  Pressing down hard with a 
hot iron, while trying to keep an even heat and pressure gets a bit 
tiresome after 5 minutes, while Ive found the swing arm tee-shirt press is 
easy to use.

Ive also switched to ammonium persulphate as an enchant as it is faster and 
I've stained too many of my cloths with ferric chloride. To etch, I use two 
containers one inside the other.  In the inner container I put the mixed 
"hot" etchant, while filling the outer container to a shallow depth with 
boiling water to keep the etchant hot. I don't use a bubble setup.  I just 
wear a pair of thick industrial gloves (for the chemicals and heat) and I 
use a small piece of cloth t gently wipe the etchant over the boards.  I've 
found this method works fast and caters well for irregular copper depth on 
boards.  I also find that I never over etch as I'm always handling the 
board.

 That was a good tip from Nichk and Mike regarding sodium/potassium 
persulfate, I'll be switching when my current stocks of ammonium 
persulphate run out.

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