Thanks to everyone for the advice/suggestions...

Cheers,

Nick


On Thu, Mar 21, 2013 at 9:55 PM, NoCampersFluffy <[email protected]>wrote:

> Nick
>
> I switched to using toner on press-n-peel (pnp) rather than photo,
> magazine or other glossy papers.  I only make minor trace repairs with a
> permanent marker using pnp, compared to previous papers that I used.  I've
> used a couple of different laser printers and all work great.  I select
> 1,200dpi on the laser printer as well as making the toner a bit darker as
> I've found it gives better results. If you use an iron make sure to pay
> special attention to the sides and corners of boards that are bigger than a
> couple of centimeters.  It can take a long time for the toner to melt and
> bond properly.  Easily 5 minutes for larger boards which are not
> continuously heated under the heel of the iron. I've recently bought a
> small, cheap tee shirt press which gives even heat and pressure.  Pressing
> down hard with a hot iron, while trying to keep an even heat and pressure
> gets a bit tiresome after 5 minutes, while Ive found the swing arm
> tee-shirt press is easy to use.
>
> Ive also switched to ammonium persulphate as an enchant as it is faster
> and I've stained too many of my cloths with ferric chloride. To etch, I use
> two containers one inside the other.  In the inner container I put the
> mixed "hot" etchant, while filling the outer container to a shallow depth
> with boiling water to keep the etchant hot. I don't use a bubble setup.  I
> just wear a pair of thick industrial gloves (for the chemicals and heat)
> and I use a small piece of cloth t gently wipe the etchant over the
> boards.  I've found this method works fast and caters well for irregular
> copper depth on boards.  I also find that I never over etch as I'm always
> handling the board.
>
>  That was a good tip from Nichk and Mike regarding sodium/potassium
> persulfate, I'll be switching when my current stocks of ammonium
> persulphate run out.
>
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