Spencer,

 

there are a couple of (actually many) options. I have another clock that
also multiplexes 60 LEDS as well as 6 7-segment displays in a 1-6 MUX. I
control the multiplexing of the tubes by interrupts at about 300Hz, which
ensures better timing. The power supply is probably more tolerant to a
couple of missed or late cycles without any visual effects. Shift registers
are also great tools for multiplexing, especially when used in conjunction
with a BCD to 7 segment decoder. That way you can completely control 6 tubes
with only one 8-bit port. I would suggest if you do feel inclined to add a
small MCU to help out, dedicated it to the power supply, and keep all the
clock functions as well as the multiplexing in the main MCU. 

 

So many options..... :-)

 

Bill v. Dijk

 

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On
Behalf Of Spencer
Sent: Sunday, July 21, 2013 2:07 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] IV-11 VFD

 

Thanks for the schematic. It would be overkill if it was just for a clock
but I want to save cycles on the MCU since it was multiplexing the tubes and
boosting the voltage. I was taking cycles away from the MCU and it was
causing flickering. I looked at either a PT6311 or having a dedicated attiny
to run the multiplex/booting and feeding via serial the tube display.

 

So it just looks like the filament voltage is biased (is that the current
term?) to the grid voltage. So -18v filament one end and -20 the other end
and grid/anode is -20v. I am using MC34063 inverted to generate the voltage.
I'll give it a shot it and see what happens!

 

  _____  

From: Bill van Dijk <[email protected]>
To: [email protected] 
Sent: Sunday, July 21, 2013 7:07 AM
Subject: RE: [neonixie-l] IV-11 VFD

 

Spencer,

 

Attached is the schematic for my IV17 clock with a PT6311. It is a chip that
takes a bit of figuring out, also on the software side. My clock displays
time (why not eh?) and the full date in a marquee format as well as ambient
temperature. I would suggest the PT6311 is possibly a bit of overkill for a
7 segment based clock design.

 

Bill v. Dijk

 

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On
Behalf Of Spencer
Sent: Saturday, July 20, 2013 2:29 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] IV-11 VFD

 

Got it working! It lights up now and it looks like I will have to change the
filament resistor. I was using a 30 ohm with +5V but ooo boy does it get
bright with that. I'll drop it down to around +1.5V and can take it from
here.

 

Thanks again.

 

  _____  

From: John Rehwinkel <[email protected]>
To: [email protected] 
Sent: Saturday, July 20, 2013 12:54 PM
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] IV-11 VFD


> Thanks for the reply. I put the -25v on pins 1 and 11 (cathodes) and GND
on pin 2(grid) and GND on a random anode to see if it would light up and
nothing illuminated.

The filament needs to be hot to emit electrons for the VFD to operate - this
is normally accomplished by heating it electrically.  I did kind of gloss
over this -- you have to have voltage across the filament as well - this is
true no matter how the other voltages are supplied.  The "ideal" method is
to have a small center-tapped transformer providing the AC filament voltage
(generally something between half a volt to a few volts), and hook the -25V
to the center tap.  I often use a generic 6.3V filament transformer, with
series resistors to drop the voltage to whatever the VFD filament needs.
Some people don't want to bother with an AC filament voltage, and just run
it with DC - this will work, but can lead to brightness gradients in some
tubes.

So, just to light something, at a minimum, you'll need -25 volts at one end
of the filament, -(25 + filament voltage) at the other end of the filament,
and 0V at the grid(s) and anode(s) you want to light.

- John

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