try to visit my website: http://vfdclock.jimdo.com.you can find answers on 
the web site.

在 2013年7月30日星期二UTC+8上午10时25分58秒,Spencer写道:
>
> After spending several days playing with the negative voltages and testing 
> it, it doesn't work as I was hoping. It seems that a lot of people use AC 
> instead of DC and I can't find an example that uses DC for negative 
> voltages. This was the closest I could find, 
> http://threeneurons.wordpress.com/vfd-stuff/ , but it looks like its AC.
>
> I was working with 2 tubes in series with a 30 ohm 2W resistor that has 
> +5V applied to the first filament and then the other end is grounded, and 
> the grid/anode was fed +30V with a HV5812 shift register. 
>
> I put the -27V on the first end and GND on the other end of the filament, 
> it lit up pretty bright on the filament and I tried with different resistor 
> values but even the 2W resistors were heating up and the brightness of the 
> segments wasn't there.
>
> I then tried -27V on the first filament and different combinations of -27V 
> and the +5V with resistors on the other end of the filament and the anodes 
> were grounded, but nothing was working or it was very dim segments. 
>
> While I would love to get this working, It looks like I should use a 
> second MCU to handle the display/boost and another to handle all the other 
> operations.
>
> Thank you everyone,
>
> Spencer
>
>   ------------------------------
>  *From:* Spencer W <[email protected] <javascript:>>
> *To:* "[email protected] <javascript:>" 
> <[email protected]<javascript:>> 
>
> *Sent:* Monday, July 22, 2013 7:33 PM
> *Subject:* Re: [neonixie-l] IV-11 VFD
>  
> So many ways to tackle one problem. I get stubborn when one way doesn't 
> work right the first time and will spend days getting it to work.
>
> I'm trying to keep the interrupts free for some rotary encoders so either 
> the pt6311 or the secondary MCU will be he way to go. Plus if I get the 
> pt6311 working for this, I have a bunch of different tubes that I can use 
> this one.
>
> I have been eyeing the IV-17 for some projects and would love to see it 
> work with this.
>
> Either way, once I get everything figured out, I'll share with the group 
> so someone else doesn't need to do the leg work.
>
> -spencer
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 22, 2013, at 4:42 PM, "Bill van Dijk" 
> <[email protected]<javascript:>> 
> wrote:
>
> Spencer,
>  
> there are a couple of (actually many) options. I have another clock that 
> also multiplexes 60 LEDS as well as 6 7-segment displays in a 1-6 MUX. I 
> control the multiplexing of the tubes by interrupts at about 300Hz, which 
> ensures better timing. The power supply is probably more tolerant to a 
> couple of missed or late cycles without any visual effects. Shift registers 
> are also great tools for multiplexing, especially when used in conjunction 
> with a BCD to 7 segment decoder. That way you can completely control 6 
> tubes with only one 8-bit port. I would suggest if you do feel inclined to 
> add a small MCU to help out, dedicated it to the power supply, and keep all 
> the clock functions as well as the multiplexing in the main MCU. 
>  
> So many options..... :-)
>  
> Bill v. Dijk
>  
> *From:* [email protected] <javascript:> [
> mailto:[email protected] <javascript:>] *On Behalf Of *Spencer
> *Sent:* Sunday, July 21, 2013 2:07 PM
> *To:* [email protected] <javascript:>
> *Subject:* Re: [neonixie-l] IV-11 VFD
>  
> Thanks for the schematic. It would be overkill if it was just for a clock 
> but I want to save cycles on the MCU since it was multiplexing the tubes 
> and boosting the voltage. I was taking cycles away from the MCU and it was 
> causing flickering. I looked at either a PT6311 or having a dedicated 
> attiny to run the multiplex/booting and feeding via serial the tube display.
>  
> So it just looks like the filament voltage is biased (is that the current 
> term?) to the grid voltage. So -18v filament one end and -20 the other end 
> and grid/anode is -20v. I am using MC34063 inverted to generate the 
> voltage. I'll give it a shot it and see what happens!
>  
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Bill van Dijk <[email protected] <javascript:>>
> *To:* [email protected] <javascript:> 
> *Sent:* Sunday, July 21, 2013 7:07 AM
> *Subject:* RE: [neonixie-l] IV-11 VFD
>  
> Spencer,
>  
> Attached is the schematic for my IV17 clock with a PT6311. It is a chip 
> that takes a bit of figuring out, also on the software side. My clock 
> displays time (why not eh?) and the full date in a marquee format as well 
> as ambient temperature. I would suggest the PT6311 is possibly a bit of 
> overkill for a 7 segment based clock design.
>  
> Bill v. Dijk
>  
> *From:* [email protected] <javascript:> [
> mailto:[email protected] <javascript:>] *On Behalf Of *Spencer
> *Sent:* Saturday, July 20, 2013 2:29 PM
> *To:* [email protected] <javascript:>
> *Subject:* Re: [neonixie-l] IV-11 VFD
>  
> Got it working! It lights up now and it looks like I will have to change 
> the filament resistor. I was using a 30 ohm with +5V but ooo boy does it 
> get bright with that. I'll drop it down to around +1.5V and can take it 
> from here.
>  
> Thanks again.
>  
> ------------------------------
> *From:* John Rehwinkel <[email protected] <javascript:>>
> *To:* [email protected] <javascript:> 
> *Sent:* Saturday, July 20, 2013 12:54 PM
> *Subject:* Re: [neonixie-l] IV-11 VFD
>
> > Thanks for the reply. I put the -25v on pins 1 and 11 (cathodes) and GND 
> on pin 2(grid) and GND on a random anode to see if it would light up and 
> nothing illuminated.
>
> The filament needs to be hot to emit electrons for the VFD to operate - 
> this is normally accomplished by heating it electrically.  I did kind of 
> gloss over this -- you have to have voltage across the filament as well - 
> this is true no matter how the other voltages are supplied.  The "ideal" 
> method is to have a small center-tapped transformer providing the AC 
> filament voltage (generally something between half a volt to a few volts), 
> and hook the -25V to the center tap.  I often use a generic 6.3V filament 
> transformer, with series resistors to drop the voltage to whatever the VFD 
> filament needs.  Some people don't want to bother with an AC filament 
> voltage, and just run it with DC - this will work, but can lead to 
> brightness gradients in some tubes.
>
> So, just to light something, at a minimum, you'll need -25 volts at one 
> end of the filament, -(25 + filament voltage) at the other end of the 
> filament, and 0V at the grid(s) and anode(s) you want to light.
>
> - John
>
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