Nice! Have you tried to adjust the anode current to get the glow to stay on one pin and not leak so much between pins? I just tested a large bunch of A-101, A-102, A-103, A-106 and earlier I have tested a large bunch of A-107, A-108 & A-109 and I needed to adjust the anode current on every single one of these to get them to spin up to the maximum frequency in the datasheet, and also to get a minimum of leakage between cathodes. Some also needed to have the guide bias voltages adjusted within the range in the datasheet to run properly at high speed. The anode current on all of those I checked needed to be adjusted to a value close to the one in the datasheet, not one would run perfectly without this adjustment. The glow was also more uniform and even at low speeds when the adjustment had been done to get them to run properly at high speed, adjusting the anode current at low speed won't do as the high speed requirement is different and you'll need to find the sweetspot for each dekatron. The high speed (A-106, A-107 & A-109) ones also changed how the glow looked when they were adjusted correctly, with the wrong anode current the glow was much more "on", or closer to the pins like in a GC10B dekatron, but with the correct anode current the glow was "between" the pins, further away from the pins - the glow extends a lot more from the pin itself with the correct anode current than it does with the wrong anode current, then it looks like there is no glow "on" the pin at all. I was able to press four of the A-106 up to 150KHz with ease and two of these four specimens ran at 225KHz without a hickup, these two had a more blueish glow than the others which had a more purplish glow, the two sets were manufactured different years so that could make up for the difference in gas mixture (or it might just be old age as more than 50% of them were duds, even though some contained gas they would not strike nor count). With the correct anode current there was less current leaking between the electrodes on both types. Tweaking the cathode resistors also resulted in less leakage, but some needed a higher value and some a lower value so there was no way of telling what would work best. It seems like the Russian dekatrons (at least all I have) need more tweaking compared to the European/American types to me, I don't own any other types like those from Asia (Japan) so I can't say of those are like the Russian or the European/American when it comes to tweaking. /Martin
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