In this context, it might be interesting also to look at two related tubes: The 
E8T and E80T. 

Both are binary tubes, with a functional principle that lies at the base of the 
E1T. Namely deflection of an electron beam.

 

eric

 

Van: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] Namens 
Dekatron42
Verzonden: woensdag 3 augustus 2016 15:45
Aan: neonixie-l
Onderwerp: [neonixie-l] Re: Playing with E1T-tubes & restoring them

 

Those modules are probably just using the standard design for the E1T which you 
can find in any E1T datasheet. I have seen a lot of those modules and they have 
all been standard designs - there are a however a very few 100 kHz and 1 MHz 
designs that use a few more vacuum diodes and also one or more triodes to reach 
the higher speed (the standard module is capable of some 30 kHz). Some of the 
designs use a small trim potentiometer to adjust the cathode current to adjust 
each module for maximum counting speeds but I don't think that your modules 
uses one.

 

Be careful when pulling the E1T from the sockets as the sockets are sometimes 
very brittle and easily break, moisture and old age makes them brittle.

 

Phywe, Leybold, Neva and Frieseke Hoepfner used them in Geiger counters and 
ordinary counters - one module can be seen here: 
http://www.jogis-roehrenbude.de/Roehren-Geschichtliches/Nixie/E1T.htm which I 
believe is identical to yours.

 

You can buy decals, like the ones used on model planes, which you can use in 
inkjet printers and then just wet them and transfer them to the tubes and the 
put an extra layer of lacquer on top to seal them - I haven't used those decals 
in many years now so I am not sure where to buy them right now, but model 
hobbyist shops might know.

 

/Martin

 

 

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