yeah? but i still like the Lixies, and do not have the equipment to make them,
so a purchase is preferred (yep a born sucker, just awaiting) aspersions?
noun
1.
a damaging or derogatory remark or criticism; slander:
casting aspersions on a campaign rival.
2.
the act of slandering; vilification; defamation; calumniation;derogation:
Such vehement aspersions cannot be ignored.
"theres one born every minute,and two to take him!" P.T .barnum
-----Original Message-----
From: neonixie-l <[email protected]>
To: Digest recipients <[email protected]>
Sent: Thu, Mar 23, 2017 12:49 am
Subject: [neonixie-l] Digest for [email protected] - 24 updates in 4
topics
[email protected]
Google Groups
Topic digest
View all topics
IN18 Blue Dream out-of-production until 2019 - 11 Updates
Inductor specs in threeneuron's HV PSU - 7 Updates
Lixies/Tixie Clock - 5 Updates
question about threeneurons clock kit - 1 Update
IN18 Blue Dream out-of-production until 2019
Piano Forte <[email protected]>: Mar 22 04:14PM -0700
RE:IN18 Blue Dream out-of-production until 2019
I reached out to Dieter and Claus, and Claus advised that the IN18 Blue
Dream (PCB & Kit) is out of production until 2019 (!) - any background on
this development?, its a pity since I was about to order a second BD - I
should have ordered a second one last year.when I first had the
inclination.............
gregebert <[email protected]>: Mar 22 05:21PM -0700
Just guessing here, but the supply of IN-18's continues to dwindle.
Meanwhile, Dalibor continues to crank-out more tubes, so my crystal ball
says you will see a kit with some flavor of new-production nixies.
Dan Hollis <[email protected]>: Mar 22 05:30PM -0700
Greg P <[email protected]>: Mar 22 07:06PM -0700
Buy the PV Electronics Spectrum 18.
http://www.pvelectronics.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=18&products_id=157
Great kit, great support, in stock, direct drive, many case options and way
more features at a much more attractive price point.
On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 7:14:57 PM UTC-4, Piano Forte wrote:
Gene Segal <[email protected]>: Mar 22 07:22PM -0700
I wonder if the production stopping is in some way related to
questionable customer service for the Blue Dream?
Good to know there are other options out there.
--
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Nicholas Stock <[email protected]>: Mar 22 07:30PM -0700
I'll echo the perceived lack of service too....I've repaired two blue
dream
clocks for people as no support was offered..
Pete's Spectrum 18 is a great clock for a very good price.
Nick
Piano Forte <[email protected]>: Mar 22 09:43PM -0700
Thanks for the recommendations everyone - I actually reached out to
Pete
shortly after the BD discontinuation news, and ordered his Spectrum 18 kit,
PIR and Case last week. He has been an absolute pleasure to work with -
responsive, accommodated special requests and provided a first-rate
experience overall during my first order with him.
I ended up losing a tube to gas leakage on my BlueDream, and I attribute it
to the rigid cup-style pin holders that stress the gas seal (1992/02 date
code tube failed after 10 months of service, even leaving it in the same
location). I am afraid to move the tubes around the BD, and Pete's design
solves the pin stress issues (also like the PIR shutoff feature).
On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 7:30:52 PM UTC-7, Pramanicin wrote:
Alic <[email protected]>: Mar 22 10:26PM -0700
It's a pity. It's still my favorite IN-18 clock because it is compact
and I like the proportions (the tubes are on the axis of the board).
I was also secretly hoping that the black'n'wood would become available again.
Maybe things have changed since.
Also, I don't know what others expect from someone who sells nixie DIY clock
kits as a hobby, but on the rare occasions when I had a question or a problem
with Claus' and Dieter's clocks, I always received good advice on how to repair
it myself.
The board of the Blue dream isn't expensive enough to be sent back (especially
from the USA) and spend hours on a repair.
I never had problems with gas leaks with the nixies I bought from Dieter with
the clocks.
One set is from '92 as well.
I did have problems with tubes off eBay where the pins were not straight.
"Jeff Walton" <[email protected]>: Mar 23 12:48AM -0500
Agree, Pete is great to work with. Very good customer service!
------------------------
Did you have a schematic to do the repairs on the Blue Dream?
Jeff
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On
Behalf Of Piano Forte
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2017 11:44 PM
To: neonixie-l
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: IN18 Blue Dream out-of-production until 2019
Thanks for the recommendations everyone - I actually reached out to Pete
shortly after the BD discontinuation news, and ordered his Spectrum 18 kit, PIR
and Case last week. He has been an absolute pleasure to work with - responsive,
accommodated special requests and provided a first-rate experience overall
during my first order with him.
I ended up losing a tube to gas leakage on my BlueDream, and I attribute it to
the rigid cup-style pin holders that stress the gas seal (1992/02 date code
tube failed after 10 months of service, even leaving it in the same location).
I am afraid to move the tubes around the BD, and Pete's design solves the pin
stress issues (also like the PIR shutoff feature).
On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 7:30:52 PM UTC-7, Pramanicin wrote:
I'll echo the perceived lack of service too....I've repaired two blue dream
clocks for people as no support was offered..
Pete's Spectrum 18 is a great clock for a very good price.
Nick
On Wed, Mar 22, 2017 at 7:22 PM, Gene Segal <[email protected]
<javascript:> > wrote:
I wonder if the production stopping is in some way related to questionable
customer service for the Blue Dream?
Good to know there are other options out there.
<javascript:> Greg P
March 22, 2017 at 7:06 PM
Buy the PV Electronics Spectrum 18.
http://www.pvelectronics.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info
<http://www.pvelectronics.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=18&products_id=157>
&cPath=18&products_id=157
Great kit, great support, in stock, direct drive, many case options and way
more features at a much more attractive price point.
On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 7:14:57 PM UTC-4, Piano Forte wrote:
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<javascript:> Piano Forte
March 22, 2017 at 4:14 PM
RE:IN18 Blue Dream out-of-production until 2019
I reached out to Dieter and Claus, and Claus advised that the IN18 Blue Dream
(PCB & Kit) is out of production until 2019 (!) - any background on this
development?, its a pity since I was about to order a second BD - I should have
ordered a second one last year.when I first had the inclination.............
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"Jeff Walton" <[email protected]>: Mar 23 12:53AM -0500
I also have a Blue Dream with IN-18. As you say, it is very nicely
proportioned. Also, the colon fade and digit fade are among the nicest out
there. It is a beautiful clock with lots of features.
It's a bit of a pain to program and I have to pull out the manual and relearn
it every time I want to do something and have to make notes to remember the
settings. Eventually it becomes clear. The documentation with example
settings helps a lot. While I have not had any issues with the clock itself, I
have lost a couple tubes (originally supplied with Blue Dream) where the tube
seals failed and tube went dark. I do blame the pin socket arrangement for
applying too much stress but it is certainly an elegant design and layout.
In ~2.5 years, I have "refreshed" a couple tubes on the Blue Dream that began
to cathode poison, beginning with the "8". My night mode was originally set to
dim to 20% and I think that might be too low and hasten poisoning the cathodes
if the clock sees any amount of hours, so I increased the dim setting to 40%
and have not seen any poisoning for awhile.
I do have a motion sensor outlet that powers the clock fully off after 10
minutes of no motion activity, so I think it will help the overall tube life.
The internal battery that holds the time and settings is supposed to be good
for ~10 years and this is OK to do per Dieter and the latest manual. It does
change the start time that date and cathode poisoning prevention occur. The
counters for the display functions start when the power is reapplied. So by
cycling the full power, on one cycle, the date may show at the top of the hour
and on the next motion cycle, it will be different. On mine, the date will
show 55 seconds after power turn on time if you set a 55 sec time, 5 sec date
display ratio. If you power on and off as I do, you also need to set the
cathode poisoning cycle to occur at a frequency that is shorter than the
external motion timer or it will not count up long enough to ever digit cycle
if the clock doesn't stay on long enough.
One thing that would be helpful for repair is if anyone has a Blue Dream
schematic that we could keep for troubleshooting. The brains of the clock are
in the firmware (protects the design) so it would be nice to at least have an
electrical schematic in case parts ever fail and need
troubleshooting/replacing. The assembly documentation is very nice but
contains no schematic except for a breakout of the DIN connector for using an
AUX output. I asked Nocrotec for one some time ago but never got a response.
I'd love to add a PIR to the clock instead of the motion sensor outlet to keep
the display timers alive.
Anyone ever see a schematic of the IN-18 Blue Dream to share? Hopefully, they
bring the Blue Dream back because it is really a great looking clock!
Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On
Behalf Of Alic
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2017 12:27 AM
To: neonixie-l
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: IN18 Blue Dream out-of-production until 2019
It's a pity. It's still my favorite IN-18 clock because it is compact and I
like the proportions (the tubes are on the axis of the board).
I was also secretly hoping that the black'n'wood would become available again.
Maybe things have changed since.
Also, I don't know what others expect from someone who sells nixie DIY clock
kits as a hobby, but on the rare occasions when I had a question or a problem
with Claus' and Dieter's clocks, I always received good advice on how to repair
it myself.
The board of the Blue dream isn't expensive enough to be sent back (especially
from the USA) and spend hours on a repair.
I never had problems with gas leaks with the nixies I bought from Dieter with
the clocks.
One set is from '92 as well.
I did have problems with tubes off eBay where the pins were not straight.
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Alic <[email protected]>: Mar 23 12:02AM -0700
I know I received a link to schematic for the black'n'wood which I
downloaded, but I have to check when I'm home for the one of the blue dream.
Back to top
Inductor specs in threeneuron's HV PSU
"Morten Mønsted" <[email protected]>: Mar 22 03:40AM -0700
Hi,
I'm building a nixie clock "from scratch", designing the circuit (with
great inspiration from other projects) and the PCB etc. Just for my own
entertainment, not for selling or anything. I'm a hobbyist, not a
professional :)
I want to have the power supply on the board, and was inspired by
threeneuron's high voltage supply, which can be seen
here: https://threeneurons.wordpress.com/nixie-power-supply/hv-supply-kit/
My problem is that I can't source the inductor L1 with the correct
combination of *100uH* and *1.4A.* The closest I can get are:
1. 68µH / *1.4A*
2. 220µH / *1.4A*
3. *100µH* / 1.0A
4. *100µH* / 1.6A
Now my question is, would I be able to use one of the four above mentioned
inductors, without switching other parts? On the page linked above it says
that you can increase the output power of the PSU by using an higher
current inductor, but it also says that it's necessary to change some other
parts like resistors and a capacitor.
My thoughts so far:
1. I could go with inductor #4 and not change other parts, because I
know I won't ever get over 3 watts total (but I'm not sure if this is safe
or not)
2. Go with inductor #3, not changing other parts, knowing that I won't
use up the current capacity (but again, is that really safe?)
3. Use inductor #1 or #2 — but again my lack of knowledge plays in, as I
have no idea how significant the 100µH is, and would would happen if you
increased/decreased it.
I know I can probably get exactly the correct inductor from the right
supplier, but I have to stick with a few who don't charge an arm and a leg
for shipping (to my country), whilst still selling in low quantities. Also,
I'm hoping to learn something here, by not simply throwing money at the
problem!
Any help is much appreciated!
Nick <[email protected]>: Mar 22 03:47AM -0700
A higher-current-rated inductor of the same uH value and same type will
be
fine - inductor #4 is likely as good as the original...
Nick
"Morten Mønsted" <[email protected]>: Mar 22 03:54AM -0700
Thanks for your answer.
All right, it does make sense, my concern was with the rest of the circuit
only being designed for 1.4A. But I guess the key here is that it's "up to
1.4A", which I will never reach, even thought the rating is higher.
On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 11:47:14 AM UTC+1, Nick wrote:
Tomasz Kowalczyk <[email protected]>: Mar 22 04:25AM -0700
You're right. The current rating for an inductor is an "up to" value,
as it
states the maximum current you can pass through that part without
saturating the ferrite core. A saturated inductor in a boost converter will
heat up and the converter won't reach designated voltage.
Btw. I've read somewhere, that for boost converters you shouldn't use
inductors with "o" shaped core or any closed loop core inductors, as they
are much easier to saturate. I've done only very short tests, and it was
true - but maybe the peak current of the inductor was too high, I can only
measure average, which was 3x lower than that coil max specified current.
Can anyone confirm if it is possible or not to use closed loop ferrite
cores for converter coils?
W dniu środa, 22 marca 2017 11:54:15 UTC+1 użytkownik Morten Mønsted
napisał:
threeneurons <[email protected]>: Mar 22 11:07AM -0700
The coil issued with the kit is a Bourns RLB9012-101. All major
distributors (Mouser, Digikey, ...) are currently out of stock, and back
ordered to May. That coil is a tad overkill for what the supply is rated to
output. The RLB0914-101 will also work to more than the posted maximum
specs. So will a RLB9012-082 (82uH).
"Morten Mønsted" <[email protected]>: Mar 22 02:24PM -0700
Thanks for your answer :)
As I read you, I could use either RLB0914-101 or RLB9012-082 instead?
I just checked and I can get the RLB0914-101 from my supplier of choice!
On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 7:07:33 PM UTC+1, threeneurons wrote:
threeneurons <[email protected]>: Mar 22 03:37PM -0700
Yep, when I saw the stock situation, I order some 82uH parts, and
tested
them, in excess of the recommended load. Worked great. I had already tested
the RLB9014-101, way back when, but routinely ordered the RLB9012 part due
to the extra safety margin.
On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 2:24:48 PM UTC-7, Morten Mønsted wrote:
Back to top
Lixies/Tixie Clock
Manuel Azevedo <[email protected]>: Mar 22 01:01AM
-0700
I've been thinking of making something myself like this, though smaller.
Neo-pixels on their way...
Acrylic: studying my options...
"JohnK" <[email protected]>: Mar 22 06:49PM +1030
I am really surprised that no-one has mentioned the you-know-who saga.
John K.
----- Original Message -----
From: Nick
To: neonixie-l
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2017 4:02 PM
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Lixies/Tixie Clock
On Wednesday, 22 March 2017 09:13:31 UTC+4, gregebert wrote:
I think a lot of kickstarter campaigns are started by people who have a
good idea, but dont have first-hand experience taking a concept into
production. It's NOT easy, and it's not cheap.
Every time I finish another clock, my wife asks me why I dont sell them. My
usual answer is that I make nixie clocks for fun and I do it at my own leisure;
once I start selling them it's a business with financial & schedule
constraints. I get too much of that from my day-job (well, it's more like a
day+night+weekend job....).
-------------------
Regarding that guy's sob-story about his Prius......I own 2 of them and
they are excellent, trouble-free cars.
Regarding that guy's sob story about Chinese PCB manufacture....I've done
several boards there and they are excellent quality.
Agreed on all fronts - the sob-story is completely irrelevant - he could
still have pledged to return the money over time and if I was a backer, I'd be
really piss*d about this. His own/personal problems/stupidity are nothing to do
with his backers.
I also use a variety of Chinese PCB manufacturers - PCBway is my current
favorite for prototypes - and I've never had a problem with them, assuming you
give them decent Gerbers in the first place :)
I've commercialised a few items over the years, but I gave up being an EE
professionally many years ago as it's a tough old world. Bring a product to
market requires a lot of careful planning and risk assessment, both commercial
and technical - you shouldn't even consider Kickstarter until you have a few
working prototypes, i.e. Kickstarter is not a way to realise your technical
fantasies!
Anybody thinking about this, just do a lot of upfront reading first and,
please, talk to people who've done that & been there - experience is
everything: Accept that the risk should be all yours, not your backers', Be
honest, communicate well and regularly (surprises are generally a BAD plan),
build in contingency (that's not the same as profit, by the way!). Backers
accept properly managed risk - some projects are bound to fail - no-one accepts
stupidity or dishonesty.
NIck
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Nick <[email protected]>: Mar 22 01:24AM -0700
The guy is dead. We've been over it far too many times - nothing to be
gained revisiting it.
Nick
Dylan Distasio <[email protected]>: Mar 22 01:04PM -0400
No funds were ever returned, and I think you can see from his own
writing
that he has no real issue with what he did. Apparently, screwing over his
backers was a learning tool for him.
I have backed a ton of projects on Kickstarter, and fully understand that
things can go wrong and that ultimately a project may not work out
(although in all my backed projects, his was the only one where I
encountered a total loss combined with fraud). I think that all most
backers are looking for is a well planned out best effort, and transparency
throughout the process. In this case, there was zero transparency until
the end, irresponsible use of funds (criminal in my mind), and a lack of
remorse. If he had really cared about what he had done, and learned from
the experience, he would be refunding his backers over time.
Anyways, for obvious reasons, I personally will never do business with him
again. Luckily, it was a relatively minor loss financially, but the
overall experience leaves a bitter taste.
[email protected]: Mar 22 05:11PM -0400
Agreed.
How about the failed kickstarters though?
Still waiting forever for my TIKO.
What's worse is that they came back and had everyone pay an additional $55
for shipping and that isn't going to be refunded either.
Michail
In a message dated 3/22/2017 1:24:48 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
[email protected] writes:
The guy is dead. We've been over it far too many times - nothing to be
gained revisiting it.
Nick
Back to top
question about threeneurons clock kit
threeneurons <[email protected]>: Mar 22 11:00AM -0700
Only list the ones that ready to go out the door. I have parts & boards
for
a lot more.
On Monday, March 20, 2017 at 3:51:48 AM UTC-7, Tomas Begley wrote:
Back to top
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