yeah? but i still like the Lixies, and do not have the equipment to make them, 

so a purchase is preferred (yep a born sucker, just awaiting) aspersions?
noun
1.
a damaging or derogatory remark or criticism; slander:
casting aspersions on a campaign rival.


2.
the act of slandering; vilification; defamation; calumniation;derogation:
Such vehement aspersions cannot be ignored.


"theres one born every minute,and two to take him!" P.T .barnum







-----Original Message-----
From: neonixie-l <[email protected]>
To: Digest recipients <[email protected]>
Sent: Thu, Mar 23, 2017 12:49 am
Subject: [neonixie-l] Digest for [email protected] - 24 updates in 4 
topics



  
    
      
        
          
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          Topic digest    
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            IN18 Blue Dream out-of-production until 2019 -      11 Updates    
      
            Inductor specs in threeneuron's HV PSU -      7 Updates    
      
            Lixies/Tixie Clock -      5 Updates    
      
            question about threeneurons clock kit -      1 Update    
    
      
            IN18 Blue Dream out-of-production until 2019        
  
          

                  Piano Forte <[email protected]>: Mar 22 04:14PM -0700   
             

        RE:IN18 Blue Dream out-of-production until 2019
 
I reached out to Dieter and Claus, and Claus advised that the IN18 Blue 
Dream (PCB & Kit) is out of production until 2019 (!) - any background on 
this development?, its a pity since I was about to order a second BD - I 
should have ordered a second one last year.when I first had the 
inclination.............
      
          
                  gregebert <[email protected]>: Mar 22 05:21PM -0700       
         

        Just guessing here, but the supply of IN-18's continues to dwindle. 
Meanwhile, Dalibor continues to crank-out more tubes, so my crystal ball 
says you will see a kit with some flavor of new-production nixies.
      
          
                  Dan Hollis <[email protected]>: Mar 22 05:30PM -0700     
           

              
          
                  Greg P <[email protected]>: Mar 22 07:06PM -0700    
            

        Buy the PV Electronics Spectrum 18.
 
http://www.pvelectronics.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=18&products_id=157
 
Great kit, great support, in stock, direct drive, many case options and way 
more features at a much more attractive price point. 
 
 
 
On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 7:14:57 PM UTC-4, Piano Forte wrote:
      
          
                  Gene Segal <[email protected]>: Mar 22 07:22PM -0700    
            

        I wonder if the production stopping is in some way related to 
questionable customer service for the Blue Dream?
 
Good to know there are other options out there.
 
 
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                  Nicholas Stock <[email protected]>: Mar 22 07:30PM -0700    
            

        I'll echo the perceived lack of service too....I've repaired two blue 
dream
clocks for people as no support was offered..
 
Pete's Spectrum 18 is a great clock for a very good price.
 
Nick
 
      
          
                  Piano Forte <[email protected]>: Mar 22 09:43PM -0700   
             

        Thanks for the recommendations everyone - I actually reached out to 
Pete 
shortly after the BD discontinuation news, and ordered his Spectrum 18 kit, 
PIR and Case last week. He has been an absolute pleasure to work with - 
responsive, accommodated special requests and provided a first-rate 
experience overall during my first order with him.
 
I ended up losing a tube to gas leakage on my BlueDream, and I attribute it 
to the rigid cup-style pin holders that stress the gas seal (1992/02 date 
code tube failed after 10 months of service, even leaving it in the same 
location). I am afraid to move the tubes around the BD, and Pete's design 
solves the pin stress issues (also like the PIR shutoff feature).
 
 
 
On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 7:30:52 PM UTC-7, Pramanicin wrote:
      
          
                  Alic <[email protected]>: Mar 22 10:26PM -0700                

        It's a pity. It's still my favorite IN-18 clock because it is compact 
and I like the proportions (the tubes are on the axis of the board).
I was also secretly hoping that the black'n'wood would become available again.
 
Maybe things have changed since.
Also, I don't know what others expect from someone who sells nixie DIY clock 
kits as a hobby, but on the rare occasions when I had a question or a problem 
with Claus' and Dieter's clocks, I always received good advice on how to repair 
it myself.
 
The board of the Blue dream isn't expensive enough to be sent back (especially 
from the USA) and spend hours on a repair.
 
I never had problems with gas leaks with the nixies I bought from Dieter with 
the clocks.
One set is from '92 as well.
 
I did have problems with tubes off eBay where the pins were not straight.
      
          
                  "Jeff Walton" <[email protected]>: Mar 23 12:48AM -0500    
            

        Agree, Pete is great to work with.    Very good customer service!
 
------------------------
 
Did you have a schematic to do the repairs on the Blue Dream?
 
 
 
Jeff
 
 
 
 
 
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On 
Behalf Of Piano Forte
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2017 11:44 PM
To: neonixie-l
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: IN18 Blue Dream out-of-production until 2019
 
 
 
Thanks for the recommendations everyone - I actually reached out to Pete 
shortly after the BD discontinuation news, and ordered his Spectrum 18 kit, PIR 
and Case last week. He has been an absolute pleasure to work with - responsive, 
accommodated special requests and provided a first-rate experience overall 
during my first order with him.
 
 
 
I ended up losing a tube to gas leakage on my BlueDream, and I attribute it to 
the rigid cup-style pin holders that stress the gas seal (1992/02 date code 
tube failed after 10 months of service, even leaving it in the same location). 
I am afraid to move the tubes around the BD, and Pete's design solves the pin 
stress issues (also like the PIR shutoff feature).
 
 
 
 
 
On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 7:30:52 PM UTC-7, Pramanicin wrote:
 
I'll echo the perceived lack of service too....I've repaired two blue dream 
clocks for people as no support was offered..
 
 
 
Pete's Spectrum 18 is a great clock for a very good price.
 
 
 
Nick
 
 
 
On Wed, Mar 22, 2017 at 7:22 PM, Gene Segal <[email protected] 
<javascript:> > wrote:
 
I wonder if the production stopping is in some way related to questionable 
customer service for the Blue Dream?
 
Good to know there are other options out there.
 
 
 
 
 <javascript:> Greg P
 
March 22, 2017 at 7:06 PM
 
Buy the PV Electronics Spectrum 18.
 
 
 
http://www.pvelectronics.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info 
<http://www.pvelectronics.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=18&products_id=157>
 &cPath=18&products_id=157
 
 
 
Great kit, great support, in stock, direct drive, many case options and way 
more features at a much more attractive price point. 
 
 
 
 
 
On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 7:14:57 PM UTC-4, Piano Forte wrote:
 
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 <javascript:> Piano Forte
 
March 22, 2017 at 4:14 PM
 
RE:IN18 Blue Dream out-of-production until 2019
 
 
 
I reached out to Dieter and Claus, and Claus advised that the IN18 Blue Dream 
(PCB & Kit) is out of production until 2019 (!) - any background on this 
development?, its a pity since I was about to order a second BD - I should have 
ordered a second one last year.when I first had the inclination.............
 
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                  "Jeff Walton" <[email protected]>: Mar 23 12:53AM -0500    
            

        I also have a Blue Dream with IN-18.  As you say, it is very nicely 
proportioned.  Also, the colon fade and digit fade are among the nicest out 
there.  It is a beautiful clock with lots of features.
 
It's a bit of a pain to program and I have to pull out the manual and relearn 
it every time I want to do something and have to make notes to remember the 
settings.  Eventually it becomes clear.  The documentation with example 
settings helps a lot.  While I have not had any issues with the clock itself, I 
have lost a couple tubes (originally supplied with Blue Dream) where the tube 
seals failed and tube went dark.  I do blame the pin socket arrangement for 
applying too much stress but it is certainly an elegant design and layout.
 
In ~2.5 years, I have "refreshed" a couple tubes on the Blue Dream that began 
to cathode poison, beginning with the "8".  My night mode was originally set to 
dim to 20% and I think that might be too low and hasten poisoning the cathodes 
if the clock sees any amount of hours, so I increased the dim setting to 40% 
and have not seen any poisoning for awhile.  
 
I do have a motion sensor outlet that powers the clock fully off after 10 
minutes of no motion activity, so I think it will help the overall tube life.  
The internal battery that holds the time and settings is supposed to be good 
for ~10 years and this is OK to do per Dieter and the latest manual.  It does 
change the start time that date and cathode poisoning prevention occur.  The 
counters for the display functions start when the power is reapplied.  So by 
cycling the full power, on one cycle, the date may show at the top of the hour 
and on the next motion cycle, it will be different.  On mine, the date will 
show 55 seconds after power turn on time if you set a 55 sec time, 5 sec date 
display ratio.  If you power on and off as I do, you also need to set the 
cathode poisoning cycle to occur at a frequency that is shorter than the 
external motion timer or it will not count up long enough to ever digit cycle 
if the clock doesn't stay on long enough.
 
One thing that would be helpful for repair is if anyone has a Blue Dream 
schematic that we could keep for troubleshooting.  The brains of the clock are 
in the firmware (protects the design) so it would be nice to at least have an 
electrical schematic in case parts ever fail and need 
troubleshooting/replacing.  The assembly documentation is very nice but 
contains no schematic except for a breakout of the DIN connector for using an 
AUX output.  I asked Nocrotec for one some time ago but never got a response.  
I'd love to add a PIR to the clock instead of the motion sensor outlet to keep 
the display timers alive.
 
Anyone ever see a schematic of the IN-18 Blue Dream to share?  Hopefully, they 
bring the Blue Dream back because it is really a great looking clock!
 
 
Jeff 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On 
Behalf Of Alic
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2017 12:27 AM
To: neonixie-l
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: IN18 Blue Dream out-of-production until 2019
 
It's a pity. It's still my favorite IN-18 clock because it is compact and I 
like the proportions (the tubes are on the axis of the board).
I was also secretly hoping that the black'n'wood would become available again.
 
Maybe things have changed since.
Also, I don't know what others expect from someone who sells nixie DIY clock 
kits as a hobby, but on the rare occasions when I had a question or a problem 
with Claus' and Dieter's clocks, I always received good advice on how to repair 
it myself.
 
The board of the Blue dream isn't expensive enough to be sent back (especially 
from the USA) and spend hours on a repair.
 
I never had problems with gas leaks with the nixies I bought from Dieter with 
the clocks.
One set is from '92 as well.
 
I did have problems with tubes off eBay where the pins were not straight.
 
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                  Alic <[email protected]>: Mar 23 12:02AM -0700                

        I know I received a link to schematic for the black'n'wood which I 
downloaded, but I have to check when I'm home for the one of the blue dream.
      
      
  
    Back to top  
      
            Inductor specs in threeneuron's HV PSU        
  
          

                  "Morten Mønsted" <[email protected]>: Mar 22 03:40AM -0700          
      

        Hi,
 
I'm building a nixie clock "from scratch", designing the circuit (with 
great inspiration from other projects) and the PCB etc. Just for my own 
entertainment, not for selling or anything. I'm a hobbyist, not a 
professional :)
 
I want to have the power supply on the board, and was inspired by 
threeneuron's high voltage supply, which can be seen 
here: https://threeneurons.wordpress.com/nixie-power-supply/hv-supply-kit/
 
My problem is that I can't source the inductor L1 with the correct 
combination of *100uH* and *1.4A.* The closest I can get are:
 
   1. 68µH / *1.4A*
   2. 220µH / *1.4A*
   3. *100µH* / 1.0A
   4. *100µH* / 1.6A
 
Now my question is, would I be able to use one of the four above mentioned 
inductors, without switching other parts? On the page linked above it says 
that you can increase the output power of the PSU by using an higher 
current inductor, but it also says that it's necessary to change some other 
parts like resistors and a capacitor.
 
My thoughts so far:
 
   1. I could go with inductor #4 and not change other parts, because I 
   know I won't ever get over 3 watts total (but I'm not sure if this is safe 
   or not)
   2. Go with inductor #3, not changing other parts, knowing that I won't 
   use up the current capacity (but again, is that really safe?)
   3. Use inductor #1 or #2 — but again my lack of knowledge plays in, as I 
   have no idea how significant the 100µH is, and would would happen if you 
   increased/decreased it.
 
I know I can probably get exactly the correct inductor from the right 
supplier, but I have to stick with a few who don't charge an arm and a leg 
for shipping (to my country), whilst still selling in low quantities. Also, 
I'm hoping to learn something here, by not simply throwing money at the 
problem!
 
Any help is much appreciated!
      
          
                  Nick <[email protected]>: Mar 22 03:47AM -0700                

        A higher-current-rated inductor of the same uH value and same type will 
be 
fine - inductor #4 is likely as good as the original...
 
Nick
      
          
                  "Morten Mønsted" <[email protected]>: Mar 22 03:54AM -0700          
      

        Thanks for your answer.
 
All right, it does make sense, my concern was with the rest of the circuit 
only being designed for 1.4A. But I guess the key here is that it's "up to 
1.4A", which I will never reach, even thought the rating is higher.
 
On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 11:47:14 AM UTC+1, Nick wrote:
      
          
                  Tomasz Kowalczyk <[email protected]>: Mar 22 04:25AM -0700  
              

        You're right. The current rating for an inductor is an "up to" value, 
as it 
states the maximum current you can pass through that part without 
saturating the ferrite core. A saturated inductor in a boost converter will 
heat up and the converter won't reach designated voltage.
Btw. I've read somewhere, that for boost converters you shouldn't use 
inductors with "o" shaped core or any closed loop core inductors, as they 
are much easier to saturate. I've done only very short tests, and it was 
true - but maybe the peak current of the inductor was too high, I can only 
measure average, which was 3x lower than that coil max specified current. 
Can anyone confirm if it is possible or not to use closed loop ferrite 
cores for converter coils?
 
 
W dniu środa, 22 marca 2017 11:54:15 UTC+1 użytkownik Morten Mønsted 
napisał:
      
          
                  threeneurons <[email protected]>: Mar 22 11:07AM -0700   
             

        The coil issued with the kit is a Bourns RLB9012-101. All major 
distributors (Mouser, Digikey, ...)  are currently out of stock, and back 
ordered to May. That coil is a tad overkill for what the supply is rated to 
output. The RLB0914-101 will also work to more than the posted maximum 
specs. So will a RLB9012-082 (82uH).
 
      
          
                  "Morten Mønsted" <[email protected]>: Mar 22 02:24PM -0700          
      

        Thanks for your answer :)
 
As I read you, I could use either RLB0914-101 or RLB9012-082 instead?
 
I just checked and I can get the RLB0914-101 from my supplier of choice!
 
On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 7:07:33 PM UTC+1, threeneurons wrote:
      
          
                  threeneurons <[email protected]>: Mar 22 03:37PM -0700   
             

        Yep, when I saw the stock situation, I order some 82uH parts, and 
tested 
them, in excess of the recommended load. Worked great. I had already tested 
the RLB9014-101, way back when, but routinely ordered the RLB9012 part due 
to the extra safety margin. 
 
On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 2:24:48 PM UTC-7, Morten Mønsted wrote:
      
      
  
    Back to top  
      
            Lixies/Tixie Clock        
  
          

                  Manuel Azevedo <[email protected]>: Mar 22 01:01AM 
-0700                

        I've been thinking of making something myself like this, though smaller.
Neo-pixels on their way... 
Acrylic: studying my options...
      
          
                  "JohnK" <[email protected]>: Mar 22 06:49PM +1030      
          

        I am really surprised that no-one has mentioned the you-know-who saga.
 
John K.
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Nick 
  To: neonixie-l 
  Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2017 4:02 PM
  Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Lixies/Tixie Clock
 
 
  On Wednesday, 22 March 2017 09:13:31 UTC+4, gregebert wrote:
    I think a lot of kickstarter campaigns are started by people who have a 
good idea, but dont have first-hand experience taking a concept into 
production. It's NOT easy, and it's not cheap.
 
 
    Every time I finish another clock, my wife asks me why I dont sell them. My 
usual answer is that I make nixie clocks for fun and I do it at my own leisure; 
once I start selling them it's a business with financial & schedule 
constraints. I get too much of that from my day-job (well, it's more like a 
day+night+weekend job....). 
    -------------------
    Regarding that guy's sob-story about his Prius......I own 2 of them and 
they are excellent, trouble-free cars.
    Regarding that guy's sob story about Chinese PCB manufacture....I've done 
several boards there and they are excellent quality.
 
 
  Agreed on all fronts - the sob-story is completely irrelevant - he could 
still have pledged to return the money over time and if I was a backer, I'd be 
really piss*d about this. His own/personal problems/stupidity are nothing to do 
with his backers.
 
 
  I also use a variety of Chinese PCB manufacturers - PCBway is my current 
favorite for prototypes - and I've never had a problem with them, assuming you 
give them decent Gerbers in the first place :)
 
 
  I've commercialised a few items over the years, but I gave up being an EE 
professionally many years ago as it's a tough old world. Bring a product to 
market requires a lot of careful planning and risk assessment, both commercial 
and technical - you shouldn't even consider Kickstarter until you have a few 
working prototypes, i.e. Kickstarter is not a way to realise your technical 
fantasies!
 
 
  Anybody thinking about this, just do a lot of upfront reading first and, 
please, talk to people who've done that & been there - experience is 
everything: Accept that the risk should be all yours, not your backers', Be 
honest, communicate well and regularly (surprises are generally a BAD plan), 
build in contingency (that's not the same as profit, by the way!). Backers 
accept properly managed risk - some projects are bound to fail - no-one accepts 
stupidity or dishonesty.
 
 
  NIck
 
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                  Nick <[email protected]>: Mar 22 01:24AM -0700                

        The guy is dead. We've been over it far too many times - nothing to be 
gained revisiting it.
 
Nick
      
          
                  Dylan Distasio <[email protected]>: Mar 22 01:04PM -0400    
            

        No funds were ever returned, and I think you can see from his own 
writing
that he has no real issue with what he did.  Apparently, screwing over his
backers was a learning tool for him.
 
I have backed a ton of projects on Kickstarter, and fully understand that
things can go wrong and that ultimately a project may not work out
(although in all my backed projects, his was the only one where I
encountered a total loss combined with fraud).   I think that all most
backers are looking for is a well planned out best effort, and transparency
throughout the process.  In this case, there was zero transparency until
the end, irresponsible use of funds (criminal in my mind), and a lack of
remorse.  If he had really cared about what he had done, and learned from
the experience, he would be refunding his backers over time.
 
Anyways, for obvious reasons, I personally will never do business with him
again.  Luckily, it was a relatively minor loss financially, but the
overall experience leaves a bitter taste.
 
      
          
                  [email protected]: Mar 22 05:11PM -0400                

        Agreed.
 
How about the failed kickstarters though?
 
Still waiting forever for my TIKO.
What's worse is that they came back and had everyone pay an additional $55  
for shipping and that isn't going to be refunded either.
 
Michail  
 
 
 
In a message dated 3/22/2017 1:24:48 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
[email protected] writes:
 
The guy  is dead. We've been over it far too many times - nothing to be 
gained  revisiting it.  
 
 
Nick
      
      
  
    Back to top  
      
            question about threeneurons clock kit        
  
          

                  threeneurons <[email protected]>: Mar 22 11:00AM -0700   
             

        Only list the ones that ready to go out the door. I have parts & boards 
for 
a lot more. 
 
On Monday, March 20, 2017 at 3:51:48 AM UTC-7, Tomas Begley wrote:
      
      
  
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