I accidentally bought these once thinking it was the kind used for IN-2, IN-18, Z566M, etc. The hole is too small to accept the pin but does fit a wire, 0.8mm. I've seen 3D printed sockets that take these and you solder them to the wire nubs of pulled wire nixies in order to create a socket.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/174310210331 Ryan On Wed, Mar 3, 2021, 11:43 PM <[email protected]> wrote: > [email protected] > <https://groups.google.com/forum/?utm_source=digest&utm_medium=email#!forum/neonixie-l/topics> > Google > Groups > <https://groups.google.com/forum/?utm_source=digest&utm_medium=email/#!overview> > <https://groups.google.com/forum/?utm_source=digest&utm_medium=email/#!overview> > Topic digest > View all topics > <https://groups.google.com/forum/?utm_source=digest&utm_medium=email#!forum/neonixie-l/topics> > > - NIXIE TUBE SOCKETS <#m_-2512304779219158514_group_thread_0> - 8 > Updates > > NIXIE TUBE SOCKETS > <http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l/t/539edbf0509182fa?utm_source=digest&utm_medium=email> > Jon <[email protected]>: Mar 03 12:20AM -0800 > > Not sure the IN14 spacers on their own help the OP's question. > > As I understand it, ZM1000 do have pins and were (unusually) designed to > be > either soldered in or socketed. You can still find the original sockets > for > sale - a quick Google throws up this listing as the first hit: > https://www.ebay.com/itm/ZM1000-Nixie-Tube-Socket-/302926727122 (usual > disclaimers apply). > > IN14 and IN16 have wire terminals designed to be soldered and I am not > aware of any original sockets for these. The wires are quite soft and > flexible. I'd imagine they wouldn't have the mechanical rigidity to work > well as pins even if cut short - very likely to bend. If you are > absolutely > set on socketing these tubes, then one way might be to 3D print a custom > spacer to arrange the wires into a DIL array (ie two parallel rows of > connections each 0.1" apart, the rows spaced 0.3" apart), cut the ends of > the wires so you have 5mm or so protruding from the spacer, and then > insert > the assembly into a 14 or 16 pin ZIF socket (available from Mouser, > Farnell > etc, but also on eBay much cheaper). > > I've not tried it - suspect it'd just be a lot simpler and possibly > cheaper > to buy two sets of tubes - one to solder in and one to keep as a reserve! > They don't fail very often in a properly designed circuit. > > Jon. > > Richard Scales <[email protected]>: Mar 03 03:46AM -0800 > > For all wired tubes i would mount them on something like the tube cells > from the PV Electronics QTC clocks which would then allow you to Quickly > Change the Tube! > As previously mentioned, the wires on these tubes can be very soft and > liable to breaking off at the tube base - nobody wants that. I tend to > design 'tube cell' PCBs that match the position of all the wires perfectly > - least strain on the tubes. > I have seen others mount tubes on to DIL headers and plug them in to DIL > sockets. The ZM1000 fit a 0.1" pitch so something like turned pin IC > sockets can be used to make a socket. > I have made ZM1000 tube cells for QTC Clocks. > - Richard > > > On Wednesday, 3 March 2021 at 08:20:14 UTC Jon wrote: > > Paul Andrews <[email protected]>: Mar 03 04:33AM -0800 > > I use some milk-max sockets. Contrary to what others have said, I find > that > the tube leads are stiff enough to be pushed in to these when cut short. > You still have to make your own PCB though. Here is an example > <https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/xD4cGoKd>. The MillMax part number > is > on the second image. It is fair to say though that if your concern is > replacing bad tubes, then just using a separate board for the tubes should > be sufficient. > > For the ZM1000, I think the turned socket strips, like this one, would be > a > good solution - these might work for the other tubes too. > > https://www.ebay.com/itm/8-WAY-SOCKET-STRIP-TURNED-PIN-TAICOM-QTY-10-/124448142756?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 > On Wednesday, March 3, 2021 at 1:51:50 AM UTC-5 MrThe50sanchez wrote: > > peter bunge <[email protected]>: Mar 03 09:29AM -0500 > > I bought some Ebay sockets and bent the pins to fit (IN16). They do plug > in: > > https://www.ebay.ca/itm/1X-IN14-IN-14-Gold-Plated-Tube-Socket-Nixie-Colck-Tube-Base-Tube-Fixer-Assembled/312831469485?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 > > [image: IN16 Module 1.jpg] > [image: IN16 Module 4.jpg] > > > Toby Thain <[email protected]>: Mar 03 10:02AM -0500 > > On 2021-03-03 7:33 a.m., Paul Andrews wrote: > > is on the second image. It is fair to say though that if your concern is > > replacing bad tubes, then just using a separate board for the tubes > > should be sufficient. > > Have been looking into these options for a small CRT and will probably > design a small OSHpark PCB like this one. > > > > be a good solution - these might work for the other tubes > > too. > https://www.ebay.com/itm/8-WAY-SOCKET-STRIP-TURNED-PIN-TAICOM-QTY-10-/124448142756?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 > > < > https://www.ebay.com/itm/8-WAY-SOCKET-STRIP-TURNED-PIN-TAICOM-QTY-10-/124448142756?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 > > > > These are also available in solder cup termination, which might help > people soldering wires. > > As an alternative to using milled pins, there are spring connectors > which seem to work well too, e.g.: > > Digi-Key Part Number SAM1011-01-ND > Samtec Inc. > BCS-101-L-S-TE > 1 Position Receptacle Connector Through Hole Gold > > > I am planning to use these on the 8LK3B crt base socket pcb as long as > spacing allows (there are 7 pins in a 6.8mm radius). > > --Toby > > > > Toby Thain <[email protected]>: Mar 03 10:29AM -0500 > > On 2021-03-03 10:02 a.m., Toby Thain wrote: > > ... > > spacing allows (there are 7 pins in a 6.8mm radius). > > I mean DIAMETER... > > gregebert <[email protected]>: Mar 03 08:55AM -0800 > > I use the connector pins frequently listed on Ebay as nixie tube socket > pins, then 3D-print a collar. They have low insertion force and work on a > wide range of tubes (IN-18, NIMO, b7971, R|Z568m, 5092, and probably many > others). > > My first 2 nixie projects used ceramic sockets, and they have a very high > insertion/removal force which I fear could damage these irreplaceable > tubes. > > On Wednesday, March 3, 2021 at 7:29:22 AM UTC-8 Toby Thain wrote: > > Toby Thain <[email protected]>: Mar 03 12:35PM -0500 > > On 2021-03-03 11:55 a.m., gregebert wrote: > > > My first 2 nixie projects used ceramic sockets, and they have a very > > high insertion/removal force which I fear could damage these > > irreplaceable tubes. > > I suspect the Samtec spring socket part that I cited might help that > problem. I would guess milled pins need greater insertion force. > > --Toby > > Back to top <#m_-2512304779219158514_digest_top> > You have received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for > this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page > <https://groups.google.com/forum/?utm_source=digest&utm_medium=email#!forum/neonixie-l/join> > . > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an > email to [email protected]. > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/CAO6TCZFZVjjsPVQKPLRdkqFGYJgO8b5xS1v%3Dx_Tc6S%2BfGgFF9A%40mail.gmail.com.
