In my experience there are generally two sizes in use. 
1mm for tubes like IN-12,  IN-18, Z566, B-7971 etc
0.75mm for tubes like NL5441

It looks like your parts are for the tubes with the smaller pins like the 
NL5441 etc.

Oddly, I too accidently bought a pack of the smaller ones which I had 
hanging around for ages. Finally I found I needed them for NL5441 and I 
ended up having to buy more!

- Richard


On Thursday, 4 March 2021 at 12:53:51 UTC Ryan B wrote:

> I accidentally bought these once thinking it was the kind used for IN-2, 
> IN-18, Z566M,  etc. The hole is too small to accept the pin but does fit a 
> wire, 0.8mm. I've seen 3D printed sockets that take these and you solder 
> them to the wire nubs of pulled wire nixies in order to create a socket.
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/174310210331
>
> Ryan
>
> On Wed, Mar 3, 2021, 11:43 PM <[email protected]> wrote:
>
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>>    - NIXIE TUBE SOCKETS 
>>    <#m_-7647885470108294836_m_-2512304779219158514_group_thread_0> - 8 
>>    Updates 
>>
>> NIXIE TUBE SOCKETS 
>> <http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l/t/539edbf0509182fa?utm_source=digest&utm_medium=email>
>>  
>> Jon <[email protected]>: Mar 03 12:20AM -0800 
>>
>> Not sure the IN14 spacers on their own help the OP's question.
>>  
>> As I understand it, ZM1000 do have pins and were (unusually) designed to 
>> be 
>> either soldered in or socketed. You can still find the original sockets 
>> for 
>> sale - a quick Google throws up this listing as the first hit: 
>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/ZM1000-Nixie-Tube-Socket-/302926727122 (usual 
>> disclaimers apply).
>>  
>> IN14 and IN16 have wire terminals designed to be soldered and I am not 
>> aware of any original sockets for these. The wires are quite soft and 
>> flexible. I'd imagine they wouldn't have the mechanical rigidity to work 
>> well as pins even if cut short - very likely to bend. If you are 
>> absolutely 
>> set on socketing these tubes, then one way might be to 3D print a custom 
>> spacer to arrange the wires into a DIL array (ie two parallel rows of 
>> connections each 0.1" apart, the rows spaced 0.3" apart), cut the ends of 
>> the wires so you have 5mm or so protruding from the spacer, and then 
>> insert 
>> the assembly into a 14 or 16 pin ZIF socket (available from Mouser, 
>> Farnell 
>> etc, but also on eBay much cheaper).
>>  
>> I've not tried it - suspect it'd just be a lot simpler and possibly 
>> cheaper 
>> to buy two sets of tubes - one to solder in and one to keep as a reserve! 
>> They don't fail very often in a properly designed circuit.
>>  
>> Jon.
>>  
>> Richard Scales <[email protected]>: Mar 03 03:46AM -0800 
>>
>> For all wired tubes i would mount them on something like the tube cells 
>> from the PV Electronics QTC clocks which would then allow you to Quickly 
>> Change the Tube!
>> As previously mentioned, the wires on these tubes can be very soft and 
>> liable to breaking off at the tube base - nobody wants that. I tend to 
>> design 'tube cell' PCBs that match the position of all the wires 
>> perfectly 
>> - least strain on the tubes.
>> I have seen others mount tubes on to DIL headers and plug them in to DIL 
>> sockets. The ZM1000 fit a 0.1" pitch so something like turned pin IC 
>> sockets can be used to make a socket.
>> I have made ZM1000 tube cells for QTC Clocks.
>> - Richard
>>  
>>  
>> On Wednesday, 3 March 2021 at 08:20:14 UTC Jon wrote:
>>  
>> Paul Andrews <[email protected]>: Mar 03 04:33AM -0800 
>>
>> I use some milk-max sockets. Contrary to what others have said, I find 
>> that 
>> the tube leads are stiff enough to be pushed in to these when cut short. 
>> You still have to make your own PCB though. Here is an example 
>> <https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/xD4cGoKd>. The MillMax part number 
>> is 
>> on the second image. It is fair to say though that if your concern is 
>> replacing bad tubes, then just using a separate board for the tubes 
>> should 
>> be sufficient.
>>  
>> For the ZM1000, I think the turned socket strips, like this one, would be 
>> a 
>> good solution - these might work for the other tubes too. 
>>
>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/8-WAY-SOCKET-STRIP-TURNED-PIN-TAICOM-QTY-10-/124448142756?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292
>> On Wednesday, March 3, 2021 at 1:51:50 AM UTC-5 MrThe50sanchez wrote:
>>  
>> peter bunge <[email protected]>: Mar 03 09:29AM -0500 
>>
>> I bought some Ebay sockets and bent the pins to fit (IN16). They do plug 
>> in:
>>
>> https://www.ebay.ca/itm/1X-IN14-IN-14-Gold-Plated-Tube-Socket-Nixie-Colck-Tube-Base-Tube-Fixer-Assembled/312831469485?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
>>  
>> [image: IN16 Module 1.jpg]
>> [image: IN16 Module 4.jpg]
>>  
>>  
>> Toby Thain <[email protected]>: Mar 03 10:02AM -0500 
>>
>> On 2021-03-03 7:33 a.m., Paul Andrews wrote:
>> > is on the second image. It is fair to say though that if your concern is
>> > replacing bad tubes, then just using a separate board for the tubes
>> > should be sufficient.
>>  
>> Have been looking into these options for a small CRT and will probably
>> design a small OSHpark PCB like this one.
>>  
>>  
>> > be a good solution - these might work for the other tubes
>> > too. 
>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/8-WAY-SOCKET-STRIP-TURNED-PIN-TAICOM-QTY-10-/124448142756?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292
>> > <
>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/8-WAY-SOCKET-STRIP-TURNED-PIN-TAICOM-QTY-10-/124448142756?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292
>> >
>>  
>> These are also available in solder cup termination, which might help
>> people soldering wires.
>>  
>> As an alternative to using milled pins, there are spring connectors
>> which seem to work well too, e.g.:
>>  
>> Digi-Key Part Number SAM1011-01-ND
>> Samtec Inc.
>> BCS-101-L-S-TE
>> 1 Position Receptacle Connector Through Hole Gold
>>  
>>  
>> I am planning to use these on the 8LK3B crt base socket pcb as long as
>> spacing allows (there are 7 pins in a 6.8mm radius).
>>  
>> --Toby
>>  
>>  
>>  
>> Toby Thain <[email protected]>: Mar 03 10:29AM -0500 
>>
>> On 2021-03-03 10:02 a.m., Toby Thain wrote:
>> > ...
>> > spacing allows (there are 7 pins in a 6.8mm radius).
>>  
>> I mean DIAMETER...
>>  
>> gregebert <[email protected]>: Mar 03 08:55AM -0800 
>>
>> I use the connector pins frequently listed on Ebay as nixie tube socket 
>> pins, then 3D-print a collar. They have low insertion force and work on a 
>> wide range of tubes (IN-18, NIMO, b7971, R|Z568m, 5092, and probably many 
>> others).
>>  
>> My first 2 nixie projects used ceramic sockets, and they have a very high 
>> insertion/removal force which I fear could damage these irreplaceable 
>> tubes.
>>  
>> On Wednesday, March 3, 2021 at 7:29:22 AM UTC-8 Toby Thain wrote:
>>  
>> Toby Thain <[email protected]>: Mar 03 12:35PM -0500 
>>
>> On 2021-03-03 11:55 a.m., gregebert wrote:
>>  
>> > My first 2 nixie projects used ceramic sockets, and they have a very
>> > high insertion/removal force which I fear could damage these
>> > irreplaceable tubes.
>>  
>> I suspect the Samtec spring socket part that I cited might help that
>> problem. I would guess milled pins need greater insertion force.
>>  
>> --Toby
>>  
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