It only solved the problem for two days.  Right now I have two near-UV LEDs 
shining on the cloche in addition to the blue "neon" bulbs and that seems 
to have fixed the problem.  Next I'll try increasing the current to the 
blue "neon" bulbs.  The vendor says to use a 150K resistor with 220 vac, 
I'm using 510K with ~300 DC.  I'll try 390k in a few strategic locations.
A few years ago I took apart a faulty Philips LED Edison-base bulb.  It had 
three modules of three blue LEDs and three orange plastic diffusers, like 
this one: 
https://www.bulbamerica.com/products/philips-enduraled-8-watt-a19-dimmable-light-bulb-40w-equivalent.
  
I'll try a scavenged LED module at the base if I can't get the the blue 
"neon" bulbs to work. 

Mike


On Thursday, May 13, 2021 at 4:25:19 AM UTC-4 Pieter-Tjerk de Boer wrote:

> Nice that this has solved the problem! I do like the use of the blue 
> "neon" bulbs for this, although 14 seems quite a lot. In my clock, I have 
> (so far) only 2 blue LEDs. I have four columns of MTX-90s, and each led is 
> strategically placed at the top, in between two such columns.
> B.t.w., thanks for your (earlier) detailed description of how you built 
> yours. I'm not sure your cloches are really less tall than mine, as my 
> MTH-90s are closer together. They actually touch each other, as I don't 
> have ladder rungs in between them. Other than touching each other, they 
> don't have any support on the front side, they just hang off their (rather 
> stiff) wires at the back. My clock's frame consists of only three vertical 
> brass posts, arranged in a triangle: two to which the MTH-90 cathodes are 
> soldered, and one even farther back mostly for mechanical strength.
> Regards,
>    Pieter-Tjerk
>
>>
>>>>>>>>

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