Thanks for all of the advice.  Cleanliness and paint runs are my two
biggest worries.  I know myself well enough that it leave a
significant enough imperfection in the paint it is going to drive me
nuts.  I just worry about getting a lot of dust on it when it is wet.
Garages being what they are, the are not the cleanest environment for
painting.  I will do some practicing to see how well I can do before I
decide to try for real.  Either way I will try to post pictures when
it is done.

Thanks!

MN Blue

On Oct 26, 12:15 pm, yankfroggy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Aerosol cans are possible. The spray gun may not be necessary if the
> largest thing to paint is your tank. Aerosol cans do a great job if
> you do it right and there is less fuss and mess.
>
>  On the metal parts like the tank, remove all the old paint with jasco
> and use fine steel wool to help that process in any little crevices.
> Use rubber gloves and goggles (jasco is potent stuff). On the plastic
> parts, use very fine sand paper and bring the old paint down to at
> least a smooth haze.
>
> Wash all parts throuroughly with lots of water and mild soap like
> Dawn. Then rinse thoroughly. Use metal etch solution on the tank and
> metal parts. DO NOT try to paint if the air temperature is below 65 or
> if it's raining outside. When you are ready to paint, place the part
> and the can of paint in a warm environment ( a household radiator is
> good, or on top of lamp, or even bake in the oven at 100f). No-one in
> their right mind would tell you to place a paint can in an oven, but
> if you set at 100 and keep take it out after 5 minutes you are safe.
> It;s best to paint parts when they are warm to the touch. Loosely wrap
> low tack masking tape around your hand sticky side out and pass it all
> around the part to remove dust and lint.
>
> Shake the aerosol can vigorously for at least 2 minutes. Start your
> spray off the part and bring it in at a distance where you are leaving
> a light mist on the part evenly and quickly.
>
> Repeat this light coat repeatedly while allowing thorough drying
> between coats. This process may take days, but don't be tempted to
> rush it or to apply too thick of a coat. After 3 or 4 coats you may
> want to wet sand lightly with 000 very fine sand paper. Repeat
> cleaning process and lint removal. Continue laying coats of paint
> until you get that glossy wet look. Apply at least 6 coats.
>
> Finally bake the parts again and don't touch them for a week. The main
> things to remember are PATIENCE, absolute cleanliness, light coats ,
> and thorough drying between coats. Never touch anything with your bare
> fingers which carry oils.
>
> I have even painted larger parts with cans and the results are still
> amazing years later. However i have one advantage: I live in
> California and I worked during the summer.
>
> If you decide to go with the gun, keep the same principles in mind.
>
> Dennis
>
> On Oct 25, 3:47 pm, Minnesota Blue <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>
>
> > So I am going to paint my 1983 650.  The fun part about winter in MN
> > and motorcycles is that when it is too cold to ride you have plenty of
> > time for these "projects".  If it was always warm I would never have
> > time to do anything to a motorcycle.  I am going to have a tank liner
> > baked in first and the process can be hard on the paint. The tank
> > clear coat is pretty shot and the rest of the paint is showing its
> > age. It is currently blue and I am thinking of going yellow.  My
> > question is should I attempt to do this myself, or bite the bullet and
> > pay to have it done right?  This is never going to be a show bike and
> > I have a decent spray gun.  However, I have never painted plastic
> > before (side covers and such) and have very limited experience
> > painting anything.  Part of me wants to give it a shot because I think
> > it will be fun.  The other part of me does not want a crappy paint
> > job.  Anyone try this at home?  Any suggestions?- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
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