"escort a group of teenagers" sounds *terrifying* to me. I think that makes me an old guy. :)
-Kyle On Sun, Mar 15, 2009 at 9:08 PM, tharrisn <[email protected]> wrote: > > Ok, it's get the oil pressure checked first. > > It's gonna take me a bit to get back to this project. I'm helping > escort a group of teenagers on a back packing trip. Should be fun...I > think I'm the token old guy? <grin> > > On Mar 14, 11:33 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote: > > A great question. Before we get into that, I would call your attention to > the location of the oil pressure sending unit and the fact that the upper > end (cams, etc) are the last to get oil. That's why I'm so aghast at gonzo > RPM starts. With that in mind, it's not too difficult to see that the light > can go off (oil pressure good) long before the critical upper end parts get > lube. Many years ago we would start a cold CB450 in the garage with no > radio on and the door closed. At exactly 58 seconds after start-up, it would > suddenly get very quiet. It took that long to oil the upper end ! Lets not > speculate on any damage without a real pressure check first. I know that > going anywhere near a dealer is like being condemned to hell, but suck it up > and take this variable out of the equation. In the end you may have to > remove the head cover just to examine the problem. Not yet. > > > > --- On Sat, 3/14/09, tharrisn <[email protected]> wrote: > > From: tharrisn <[email protected]> > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: NOISE cont. > > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <[email protected]> > > Date: Saturday, March 14, 2009, 11:02 PM > > > > Would low oil pressure cause other noticeable problems besides the > > tappet noise? > > > > I know "idiot" lights on cars are notoriously bad at indicating > > problems but what about our bikes? I ask because the light comes on as > > it should when turning the ignition on but promptly goes off when the > > engine starts. > > > > On Mar 14, 2:06 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote:> This is > starting to sound like > > > > an oil pressure leakback, caused by #1 thin oil (from heat) or that #2 > > > the Sea Foam has loosened up some grunge that is unable to escape from that > part of the system since a I described, is not open-ended. Now on the #1 > cause, I'd get a dealer to check its real oil pressure when hot. There is a > screw in gauge that dealers have to do this. > > > > > Shouldn't cost much to check. Low oil pressure can be many things. Don't > panic. Since you didn't use anything on the second oil change we can't accuse > anything of diluting the oil. > > > > > --- On Sat, 3/14/09, tharrisn <[email protected]> wrote: > > > From: tharrisn <[email protected]> > > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: NOISE cont. > > > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" > > > > <[email protected]>> Date: Saturday, March 14, 2009, > 11:17 AM > > > > > Doesn't sound like all the tappets are noisy but a few and not all the > > > > time. They are the loudest after the bike is hot and sets for ten minutes > or so. > > I can almost guarantee when I start it back up and take off the noise > will be > > very pronounced until it eventually quiets back down after a mile or two > > (quicker if I rev it a bit). They'll stay quiet until it idles for some > time > > or I shut if off and start it again while still hot. I've changed oil > and > > filter twice now in 800 miles. The first change I added SeaFoam (1/3 > can). > > Second change straight engine oil (Shell 5W-40 Rotella-T). I'll make the > > next change using Marvel Mystery Oil. I've never used MM Oil before. How > > much can I safely put in the engine of this 83 650, or just follow > directions on > > can? Will it hurt anything if I continue to "soup up" the engine oil > > at each change with MM Oil no matter how long it takes to stop the tappet > noise? > > If I change oil at say 300 to 500 miles the next several> times do I > need to change the oil filter too or can I skip to every > > > > other change while working on this problem? I'm going to give the engine > > every opportunity to purge it's little gremlins before taking more > drastic > > measures like pulling the cylinder head cover. But, I'm collecting some > > spare parts should I need to dig deeper. You have helped a bunch! Thank > you. > > On Mar 13, 10:42 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote: > I > > guess I stirred something up. I did check parts sites and found no new > parts > > available. (that puzzles me, I never used any) They don't wear out and > you > > can purge them. There is a tool for purging the air that you don't need, > > just makes it easier. Let's start here; do they (one or more) tap all the > > time, some of the time, once in awhile ? For the always and often cases, > you may > > have to remove and purge. For the once in awhile, CHANGE OIL... then > change it > > again. Get the nasties out. The 3K RPM deal is to force out the> > particle. In practice, consider the adjuster like an oil pressure gauge. > > > > It's a dead-end that reacts to pressure. They do leak some out of the > bore > > and back into circulation. I change my oil every thousand miles. Comes > out like > > it went in. Seems a shame but the alternative would be more so. My one > 700s > > started to tap on a trip and without any option, I continued to ride it > home. It > > stopped some miles later and I changed the oil next day. > Never heard > from > > again. Any top-end work and I remove them and place right-side up till I > > reinstall. Somebody once tipped over a few and I had to purge them before > > replacing in motor. If the problem persists and needs attention, the > offending > > ones are easy to identify. To save time, use a screwdriver as a > stethoscope and > > get a good idea of it's general location. There should be no clearance at > > any valve. Since they retain oil, the ones that are really hard to push > down are > > good. Without oil, you are pushing against> a spring only. (still, a > tough one) Now removing it is a chore. As I am > > > > want to do, I recommend to degree in the cams on any bike with high > mileage if > > you have any reason to remove them. The results are well worth it. > Bleeding the > > air out of an adjuster is a simple process where you insert an object > into the > > hole in the end and while holding it under in a bowl of oil, work the > piston > > till the bubbles stop coming out. Hold upright and install. > I once got > a > > Hawk in that had been laying on it's side for a long time... uh oh. It > > started and rapped like mad for about 3~4 minutes. Once it quieted down, > we > > changed oil and filter, sent it on it's way. You have to make the call as > to > > what you want to do / can do for your problem. Everybody has thier own > snake > > oil, I'm going to recommend Marvel Mystery Oil added to whatever you use. > > It's quite good at cleaning. One pint in my '86 700s does it for me. > > (that year has the largest sump) It is possible one could> fail, they > are after all a mechanical device. That one would feel > > > > "not right" when purging. As in sticky, not smooth.Or a broken spring > > inside. > Any of this rambling help ? > > > --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
